DEFENSIVE DRIVING

2020-11-27T03:01:00.000-08:00

Factors that Affect Driving

1. ATTITUDE

A defensive driver must develop and demonstrate an attitude that:

· Shows concern for other road users;

· Recognizes that other road users will make mistakes;

· Knows no journey is so urgent that a safe speed can be maintained;

· Driving is a skill which requires the application of good techniques; and;

· Believes that safe driving requires an alert mind at all times.

2. BEHAVIOR

An ideal defensive driver:

· Always clean the seatbelts;

· Keeps within the advisory speed limit;

· Constantly scans the road for potential hazard;

· Signals his intentions at all times and;

· Shows courtesy at all times.

The factors affecting the behavior of the driver are the following: alcohol, drugs, and fatigue.

3. RIGHT MENTAL ATTITUDE

A defensive driver always maintain a safe caution of distance in front and behind his vehicles by: a) observing the four-second rule b) adopting a positive and skilled mental approach.

· Search – the road seen ahead, around and rear of the vehicles

· Identity – the potential and immediate hazard on the road

· Predict – the actions of other road users

· Decide – what to do to avoid an unsafe situation

2008-10-16T04:28:00.000-07:00

How to Drift a Car

Drifting is a driving technique and a motor sport where a car slides at an angle, with its side moving in the direction of the turn.

Things to do Before You Begin Drifting

Set up a cone in the middle of the lot. Drive up on the cone and rip the handbrake in an attempt to do a 180. Practice this until you are no more, and no less than 180 degrees from when you started.
Learn how to countersteer by ripping the handbrake from a speed of 30-40mph (anything less will cause an inadequate amount of momentum to get you around the cone) and trying to control the car to a destination until the car stops.
Increase speed of each of these things until you are comfortable
try to do the 180 cone turn but instead of stopping, hit the gas hard and power out and away from the cone.

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive and Manual Transmission

Find a car with both rear-wheel-drive and a manual transmission. Ideally it should be a sports car with as close to a 50/50 ratio as possible, and enough power to keep the tires spinning is ideal.
Head to an open area (i.e. an enclosed racetrack) safely free of pedestrians and motorists and police!

Hand brake technique:

Accelerate and shift into a gear with room to rev. Second gear is generally used because it allows the widest variance of speed and is best for harnessing the engine's torque.
Push in the clutch.
Flick the steering wheel to the inside of the turn as if you were going to turn around it. While simultaneously pulling the hand brake.
Immediately out some pressure on the gas pedal, let out the clutch, and steer the car in the direction of the slide, using throttle to control the angle of the drift.

More Throttle will make the car turn more, and also move the car away from the turn center. Less throttle will reduce angle, and allow the car to move towards the inside of the turn more freely. You're drifting!

Clutch Kick technique: Used while you are already moving to increase angle and/or revive wheel spin. While you are drifting, you may feel the car begin to lose its drift angle and power. If this happens, you can kick the clutch to attempt to revive to tires spinning speed. This is similar to powershifting, and you are in essence trying to 'chirp' the tires again and again.

Enter a drift.
while you still have the power put on, kick the clutch pedal in and out a few times as fast as you can until the car is drifting again.
end with your foot off of the pedal.
continue the drift, and when you feel the car begin to lose angle/power try to clutch kick again.

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive Auto

Find a large, open area.
Accelerate to a speed of 20-30(depending on lot size and room)
Turn the wheel hard and floor it. You should feel the rear end slide around if this is done correctly. Only use full throttle to start the drift, after this you should use proper throttle control to continue through the corner.

Preparing to Drift with a Front Wheel Drive Car

Go to a large, open area.
Pull the handbrake or use the parking brake, riding it out the first time or two to get over your initial fear.
Set up a cone in the middle of the lot.
Drive up to it at speed (between 20 and 30 is desired).
Pull the hand brake and turn toward the cone. Immediately after you feel the back end come around, turn to the opposite direction. This is known as opposite lock.
Repeat the opposite lock at that speed until you can control your car well. Practice this for at least several weeks regularly until it becomes second nature. (Don't do this on roadways. It is dangerous to others and can get you fined.)
Slowly increase speed until you are proficient in a speed you are comfortable with. Get to know that speed--you should never drift above that speed unless you are practicing.
Upgrade. At the same initial speed, flick the steering wheel opposite of the turn and swing it all the way into toward the CONE (not turn, you aren't ready at this stage). As before, when you feel the rear end come around, go to opposite lock.

Drifting with a Front Wheel Drive Car

Approach a turn at a comfortable speed, preferably in mid 2nd gear.
Pull the handbrake while turning into the corner, try not to lock the rear wheels.
You should still have the power on, try not to go less than 1/2 throttle at any time during the drift.

- When you feel the car start to understeer, and lose angle, pul the ebrake harder. - When the car seems to turn too much, give it progressively more throttle, and release the handbrake some. -There is no textbook for drifting. You learn by doing it. -Don't tense up, just feel it.

2008-10-16T03:58:00.000-07:00

Accident first aid tips

In the event of an accident

Ensure your own safety and that you do not create additional danger

Do not cross a carriageway. Wear reflective clothing if possible. Do not smoke in cases of chemical or petrol spillage.
Ensure the safety of others

Park well clear of the accident site. Look out for physical dangers (e.g. HAZCHEM - hazardous chemical - symbols, damaged power lines or spilt fuel). Disable the vehicles involved by turning off engines and applying handbrakes.
Warn other road users

Turn your hazard lights on.
Assess the casualties

Are you or any casualty in danger? Is the casualty conscious? Is their airway open and clear? Is the casualty breathing? Is there a pulse?
ABC checks on casualties

* Airways
Tilting the casualty's head back and lifting the chin will 'open their airway'.
* Breathing
Ensure all casualties are breathing and have the ability to carry on breathing. If a casualty is not breathing, apply artificial ventilation by blowing your expelled air into the casualty's lungs.
* Circulation
If the heart has stopped (no pulse) 'chest compressions' can be applied (preferably by a qualified first aider) to force blood through the heart and around the body. They must be combined with artificial ventilation so that the blood is oxygenated (use 15 compressions to 2 breaths ratio). That will keep the body receptive to defibrillation when the emergency service arrives.

Get help

If bystanders are present, get them to phone for an ambulance at once. Otherwise, check on casualties first.
Apply life-saving first aid

Life threatening or serious injuries must be treated swiftly. It is vital that such casualties are treated first. Remember: a casualty who is screaming is less likely to be in danger than a silent or moaning casualty.
Bleeding

Control bleeding by applying direct pressure and, where possible, elevating injured body parts.
Burns

Cool burns by pouring cold water over them for a minimum of 20 minutes or until the casualty no longer complains of pain.
Broken bones

Advise the casualty to sit or lie still, keeping the injured part supported by a blanket or pillow until help arrives.
Give accurate info to the ambulance crew

When you dial 999, the control officer needs to know the exact location, type and seriousness of the accident; the number, sex and approximate age of casualties involved and anything you know about their condition, details of any hazards and whether any casualties are trapped.
Give reassurance & minor first aid treatment

Assure the casualty that help is on its way and remain calm yourself. Treat any minor cuts and bruises.
Treat shock

Anyone hurt in an accident is likely to suffer some degree of shock. Talk to the casualty gently and lay him/her down if necessary. Blood loss and shock display the same symptoms.
Provide warmth

Protect the casualty from cold with a coat or blanket. But it is important not to overheat the casualty so do not apply a hot-water bottle or other source of direct heat.
Consider taking a basic first aid course

Contact your local Red Cross branch for details.

source:http://www.rac.co.uk/

2008-10-16T03:28:00.000-07:00

How To Change a Flat Tire

Until the day comes when we are all piloting flying cars (and trust me, the day will come), our cars are stuck with these rubber things called tires. They roll nice and all, but they have a rather nasty problem of sometimes losing air. And without air, they become deflated and virtually useless.

Changing a flat tire is not a very pleasant experience. It seems like your car purposely tries to get a flat tire at the least opportune moments. Like when you are rushing home from work to catch your favorite episode of "Happy Days," for instance. You know, the one where Fonzie rides the killer bull while on vacation in Colorado.

Now, there are some of you who might be lucky and own a car with run-flat tires or a low tire-pressure warning system. If that is the case, you might be able to avoid the icky process. But even if you are a hapless soul, changing a tire doesn't have to be all bad. With knowledge comes power. If you are unsure how to change a tire properly, and you want to know, read on.

OK, so you are driving along and all of the sudden you hear a loud bang and the telltale thumping noise of a dead tire. You carefully pull off to the shoulder of the road. Checking to make sure no other motorists are going to run you over, you exit your vehicle and inspect the car. Sure enough, your car's left front tire is completely flat. You are not going to be able to keep driving, so you are going to have to remove it and install your car's spare tire in its place.

Jack up the Car

The first step is to find your car's spare tire, jack and tire iron. The spare tire is almost always located underneath the floor mat in the trunk. Unless, of course, your car doesn't have a trunk. If you own an SUV, minivan or pickup, the spare tire is often mounted on the back of the tailgate or underneath the vehicle itself.

Once you have found the spare tire, remove it from the car. If you have an air pressure gauge handy, you will want to check the spare tire's pressure. If this tire is flat, too, you're in a bit of trouble. But let's just assume you have been keeping tabs on the spare tire's health, and its air pressure is perfect.

The next step will involve removing the flat tire. Make sure that the car is in gear (or in "park" if the car is an automatic) and the emergency brake is set. The car should be parked on a flat piece of pavement. Do not attempt to change a flat if the car is on a slope or if it is sitting on dirt. It's also a good idea to block the tire opposite of the flat tire. Therefore, if the left front tire is flat, it would be a good idea to place a brick or other large, heavy object behind the right rear tire. (Your cousin Fred might also be large and heavy, but it's not a good idea to use him to block the tire). Blocking the tire makes the car less likely to move when you are raising it.

Use the tire iron (the L-shaped bar that fits over the wheel lugs) to loosen each wheel lug. The wheel lugs are almost certainly very tight. You'll have to use brute force. Just think about how Mr. T from the "A-Team" would do it and try to be like him. Say to yourself, "Hannibal, I piddy da fool who can't break loose wheel lugs." You'll have those babies loose in no time. You loosen them by turning them counterclockwise, by the way.

Now, at this point, you don't want to actually remove the lugs. You just want them loose. Once you have accomplished this, move the jack underneath the car. If you don't know where the proper jacking points are, look them up in the owner's manual (you keep your owner's manual in your car, right?).

Maneuver the jack underneath the jack point and start to raise the jack. Most car jacks these days are a screw-type scissor jack, which means you simply turn the knob at the end of the jack using the provided metal hand crank. Raise the jack until it contacts the car's frame and continue expanding the jack.

Remove the Flat and Install the Spare

Raise the car with the jack until the flat tire is completely raised off the ground. Once this is done, remove the wheel lugs completely. Depending on how tight the lugs are you might be able to remove them by hand. Set the lugs aside in a secure location where they can't roll away.

Position the spare tire over the wheel studs. This is the most physically challenging part of the whole process. You'll have to hold up the tire and try to line up the holes in the wheel with the protruding wheel studs located on the brake hub. One trick that might help is to balance the tire on your foot while you move it into position.

After you have the spare tire hanging on the wheel studs, screw each of the wheel lugs back on. You'll want to start them by hand. Make sure you do not cross-thread them. The lugs should screw on easily. Once each of them is snug and you can't tighten them any further by hand, use the tire iron to finish the job. At this point, you don't need to get the lugs super tight. You just want them snug for now. Make sure that the wheel is fitting flush against the brake hub.

Once the spare tire is on, carefully lower the jack. Pull the jack away from the vehicle. The final step is to tighten down the lugs completely. The reason you tighten the lugs now is that the tire is on the ground and it won't rotate around like it would if it was still hanging in the air.

Wheel lugs have a specific torque rating that they are supposed to be tightened down to, but there is pretty much no way you can figure that out using a simple tire iron. The general rule here is to tighten down the lugs as much as possible. Again, think Mr. T. "I ain't flying on no plane with loose wheel lugs, Hannibal!"

That's it. Put the flat tire in the space where the spare tire was and put the jack and tire iron back in the car. Most compact spare tires are smaller than regular tires (they look dinky and people commonly refer to them as "rubber doughnuts"), so it is possible that the flat tire won't fit in the spare tire well. Also, compact spares have a limited top speed. The tire's top speed will be written on its sidewall. If your vehicle has a full-size spare, you won't encounter these problems. With the spare installed, you should be able to reach your house or the nearest service station.

2008-09-01T18:50:00.000-07:00

Vehicle Safety Check

With the holiday season fast approaching I thought we should take a look at the basic items on a vehicle safety check. I strongly suggest having a qualified mechanic carry out a full service and tune-up before contemplating any long trips and that combined with these few basic tips should see you get to your destination without any mechanical dramas.

The first item on the list is a check of the lights - headlight, both high and low beam, the indicators front and rear, parking lights front and rear, number plate lights and with the help of an assistant check your brake lights including the eye-level brake light if fitted.
Number Two is your wiper blades. There is nothing worse than getting caught in a rain shower with crappy wiper blades and usually they get overlooked until this happens! Throw a bit of water on the windscreen, operate the wipers and look for a nice streak-free finish. A handy tip that I allways use is get yourself a bottle of Rain-X and periodically wipe your windscreen with a cloth wet with the Rain-X. This stuff is awesome at beading any water that hits the screen and the water is blown off by the wind. Car polish is also useful for this.
Washer Fluid and Washer Jets. Another forgotten item until they are needed! Top up the fluid bottle with water and an approved detergent. Operate the washers and if any are blocked a poke with a sewing pin usually gets them working again. Also check the jets alignment, no use using your water to wash the guys windscreen behind you! You can re-align the jet by sticking the sewing pin into the jet and gently moving it in the direction you need it to go.
Tyres, please check your tyres before heading off anywhere. Check for adequate tread depth across the entire tread surface of the tyre. If there is major wear on one side of the tyre only I suggest you have a wheel alignment carried out before going anywhere as there may be problems that need to be corrected sooner rather than later.
Tyre Pressures. Most service stations have facilities for checking tyre pressures if you don’t have a guage or compressor at home. 32-34psi for passenger car tyres and 40psi for 4×4 and Light Truck tyres is a good operating pressure. If you are carrying a reasonable size load on your trip away increase the rear tyre pressure by around 4psi to cater for this extra load. Having correctly inflated tyres not only prolongs tyre life, it also helps reduce fuel consumption. Don’t forget to check the spare tyre!
Fan Belts, mostly referred to these days as drive belts. Check your fan belts for any signs or cracks or deterioration. If in any doubt have a mechanic check and/or replace them. Ask for the old ones to be returned and keep them as spares. You never know when they may come in handy. Tieing up annoying relatives, you know, that sort of thing.
Radiator and Heater hoses. Check all the water carrying hoses for splits and deterioration, once again if in doubt have a mechanic take a look.
All under-bonnet fluid levels. Engine oil level and condition, Transmission fluid level and condition, Coollant level and condition including the overflow bottle, Battery electrolyte level, Brake Fluid level and condition. As above, if anything looks suspect have a mechanic take a look before you head out.
Differential Oil level and condition. This one may be too adventurous for some people so ask your mechanic to make sure that they check it when you have a service done. You would be surprised at how many mechanics don’t check these basic things when servicing cars.
Another point to note - we had quite a few cars at our workshop that has stopped due to dirty fuel filters. With an efi engine it doesn’t take much of a fuel pressure drop to cause problems and the fuel filter is often over-looked when servicing a car. If you are unsure of when yours was last changed, change it yourself or have a mechanic do it for you, just to be sure. It is a small price to pay when you consider what a breakdown could cost you.

As I said these are only basic items that anyone can check and there is certainly more to consider in a vehicle safety check so please have your mechanic carry out a service and tune-up before heading off on a long trip. It is money worth spending when you consider the possible costs involved in a breakdown.

Remember to take plenty of breaks along the way and if you are travelling with small children I wish you the best of luck. Have plenty of games to keep them occupied or at least a bottle of Phenergan and a large rubber mallet for those trying times!

2008-09-01T18:22:00.000-07:00

DRIVING

If you've been out on the roads, you know that not everyone drives well. Some people speed aggressively. Others wander into another lane because they aren't paying attention. Drivers may follow too closely, make sudden turns without signaling, or weave in and out of traffic.

Aggressive drivers are known road hazards, causing one third of all traffic crashes. But inattentive driving is becoming more of a problem as people "multitask" by talking on the phone, eating, or even watching TV as they drive. We can't control the actions of other drivers. But learning defensive driving skills can help us avoid the dangers caused by other people's bad driving.

Skills That Put You in Control

Before you get behind the wheel of all that glass and steel, here are some tips to help you stay in control:

Stay focused. There are a lot of things to think about when driving: road conditions, your speed, observing traffic laws and signals, following directions, being aware of the cars around you, checking your mirrors — the list goes on. Staying focused on driving — and only driving — is key.

Distractions, like talking on the phone or eating, make a driver less able to see potential problems and react to them. It's not just teen drivers who are at fault: People who have been driving for a while can get overconfident in their driving abilities and let their driving skills get sloppy. All drivers need to remind themselves to stay focused.

Stay alert. Being alert (not sleepy or under the influence) allows you to react quickly to potential problems — like when the driver in the car ahead slams on the brakes at the last minute. Obviously, alcohol or drugs (including prescription and over-the-counter drugs) affect a driver's reaction time and judgment. Driving while tired has the same effect and is one of the leading causes of crashes. So rest up before your road trip.

Watch out for the other guy. Part of staying in control is being aware of the drivers around you and what they may suddenly do so you're less likely to be caught off guard. For example, if a car speeds past you on the highway but there's not much space between the car and a slow-moving truck in the same lane, it's a pretty sure bet the driver will try to pull into your lane directly in front of you. Anticipating what another driver may do prepares you to react.

Eight Secrets of Super Driving

When you drive defensively, you're aware and ready for whatever happens. You are cautious, yet ready to take action and not put your fate in the hands of other drivers. According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, 90% of all crashes are attributed to driver error.

Following these defensive driving tips can help reduce your risk on the road:

Think safety first. Avoiding aggressive and inattentive driving tendencies yourself will put you in a stronger position to deal with other people's bad driving. Leave plenty of space between you and the car in front. Always lock your doors and wear your seatbelt to protect you from being thrown from the car in a crash.
Be aware of your surroundings — pay attention. Check your mirrors frequently and scan conditions 20 to 30 seconds ahead of you. If a vehicle is showing signs of aggressive driving, slow down or pull over to avoid it. If the driver is driving so dangerously that you're worried, try to get off the roadway by turning right or taking the next exit if it's safe to do so. Also, keep an eye on pedestrians, bicyclists, and pets along the road.
Do not depend on other drivers. Be considerate of others but look out for yourself. Do not assume another driver is going to move out of the way or allow you to merge. Assume that drivers will run through red lights or stop signs and be prepared to react. Plan your movements anticipating the worst-case scenario.
Have an escape route. In all driving situations, the best way to avoid potential dangers is to position your vehicle where you have the best chance of seeing and being seen. Having an alternate path of travel is essential, so take the position of other vehicles into consideration when determining an alternate path of travel.
Follow the 3- to 4-second rule. Since the greatest chance of a collision is in front of you, using the 3- to 4-second rule will help you establish and maintain a safe following distance and provide adequate time for you to brake to a stop if necessary in normal traffic under good weather conditions.
Keep your speed down. Posted speed limits apply to ideal conditions. It's your responsibility to ensure that your speed matches conditions.
Separate risks. When faced with multiple risks, it's necessary to address them by separating risks. Your goal is to avoid having to deal with too many risk factors at the same time.
Cut out distractions. A distraction is any activity that diverts your attention from the task of driving. Driving deserves your full attention — so stay focused on the driving task.

If you're interested in taking a defensive driving course to help sharpen your driving knowledge and skills, contact your state's Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). All states keep a list of defensive driving courses that are approved by the state — some even offer courses online. They cost money, but some insurance companies offer insurance premium discounts for the successful completion of a course.

Source: http://kidshealth.org/

2008-08-07T19:40:00.000-07:00

Shifting Techniques

Manual Transmission

by: Brian Brown

"Heal and toe" refers to the right foot position as it operates both the gas and the brake pedal at the same time. Actually, on most modern cars it's better to use the ball of the foot (under the big toe) on the brake pedal and the edge of the foot (about halfway between the little toe and the heel) on the gas pedal. I think it's better to refer to it as "ball and edge".

There are some individual variations in position based on foot size, type of shoe, seating position, pedal placement, and so on.

It's important to give preference to the brake pedal for safety reasons, and because the brakes require more accurate control feel than the engine speed.

I have size 11 shoes. In my ti I position my foot so that my heel is on the floor near the base of the gas pedal. The ball of my foot is centered half way top to bottom on the brake pedal, with the edge of the brake pedal at my middle toe. My foot is in approximately the eleven o'clock position when I am doing this. In this position I can firmly apply the brakes, and the control feel is pretty much the same as if I was operating the brake pedal alone. By rocking my foot, I can apply the gas without varying the pressure on the brake pedal (this is one part in particular that takes practice). When I'm done braking, I slide my foot over so that it's directly on the gas pedal. My heel has remained on the same place on the floor.

Some people, particularly with smaller feet, don't keep their heel on the floor. There are some other cars that I lift my own heel from the floor. I like to have it on the floor if possible because it makes it easier to consistently control the brake pressure while rocking the foot. It's important not to have the seat too far back because the knee needs to move side to side just a little bit when doing this. Having the leg stretched out too far restricts this motion.

Aftermarket pedal covers can benefit some cars and foot sizes by bringing the edges of the pedals closer together and by changing the height relationship between the pedals. On some cars with hanging gas pedals, the gas pedal can be bent to a more favorable position (this can't be done on the ti because the pedal is hinged from the floor). I don't recommend trying to bend the brake pedal. Also be aware that pedal covers can reduce the space for a larger foot to fit between the brake pedal and the center console.

I have found the stock pedal positions to be quite good for me. Obviously this is a highly individual thing. I would suggest that people spend a significant amount of time experimenting with foot positioning before trying to reposition the pedals or investing in pedal covers.

Why heel and toe (ball and edge)?

One basic situation is starting up hill. Ball and edge allows a smooth transition from brake to gas while operating the clutch with the left foot so that the car doesn't move backwards.

Many people also use the term "heel and toe" to refer to rev-matching while shifting and/or double clutching, but it's actually just one component of these processes.

Rev-matching refers to matching the engine speed to the transmission input speed before re-engaging the clutch. This is particularly desirable when downshifting for a corner. In a hard corner, the suspension needs to be stable and the tires need to be loaded so that all of their traction is being used to generate cornering force. If the engine is at a different speed than the transmission input when the clutch is re-engaged, this will generate a force on the driveline that will upset the stability of the suspension and will cause the tires to exceed their traction capability if the corner is being taken near the limit.

It *is* necessary to rev-match if a corner is to be taken near the limit. It isn't necessary for slower corners, but it will make them smoother.

Double clutching is a technique for rev-matching the transmission's *intermediate shaft* to the output gear that is to be selected. This is a function that is normally handled automatically by the transmission's synchro-mesh gears (or synchro's). It is useful to double clutch for extreme gear changes, for older transmissions with worn synchro's, or simply to save wear on the synchro's. It's also an entertaining thing to do.

Before I get into the specifics of rev-matching and double clutching, it would probably be good to review the inner workings of the clutch and transmission.

The ti's gasoline engine has a limited output bandwidth of approximately 1000 to 6000 RPM. It can't operate from 0 RPM (like an electric motor can), so it needs a device (the clutch) to disconnect it from the drive train so that it can idle while the car is at a standstill. The power is not constant from 1000 to 6000 RPM, so it is also necessary to have different gear ratios in the transmission to extend the car's useful operation speed range and to maximize available acceleration. The clutch also serves to disconnect power to the transmission when changing gears.

THE CLUTCH:

The clutch is integrated with the engine's flywheel. There is a disk with friction material, similar to a brake pad, that is connected to the transmission input shaft on a sliding spline. This disk is surrounded by the flywheel surface on one side, and the pressure plate surface on the other side. The pressure plate is spring loaded to squeeze the clutch disk against the flywheel, effectively making a solid connection. The pressure plate can be moved by pressing down on the clutch pedal. This releases the coupling pressure between the flywheel and the clutch disk so that they can rotate independently.

There are three states the clutch can be in:

CLUTCH DISENGAGED (pedal pressed down): The engine flywheel and the clutch disk can rotate independently. No power is being transferred.

CLUTCH SLIPPING (pedal brought up just to the point that the clutch starts to grab): The engine flywheel and the clutch disk are still rotating at different speeds, but power is being transferred. If the clutch pedal is continued to be brought up properly, the speed of the engine and the clutch disk will be brought together. This is the state that clutch wear occurs.

CLUTCH ENGAGED (pedal up): The engine flywheel and the clutch disk are locked together. Full power is being transferred, and no clutch wear is occurring.

THE TRANSMISSION:

The transmission has an input and an output. The ti has five forward gear ratios (fifth gear is a straight 1:1, not an overdrive) and one reverse gear ratio. The forward gears are all *constant-mesh*, that means that the gear teeth for all ratios are always engaged with each other at all times. Instead of sliding a gear out of engagement with another gear, the gear is disengaged by disconnecting it from the *shaft* that it is on. Only one gear ratio pair can be connected to the shaft at one time. The reverse gear is an actual sliding gear whose teeth actually slide out of engagement when it's not being used.

Each forward gear can be coupled to its shaft by a sliding locking coupler. This coupler connects splines on the shaft to splines on the gear. The coupler needs to be at the same speed as the gear splines to avoid grinding. (When people refer to "grinding the gears", it is actually the splines that are grinding, not the gear teeth). To synchronize the coupler with the gear splines, there is an intermediate device called a synchro-mesh.

The synchro-mesh is a lightweight ring with spline teeth on one side, and a conical friction surface on the other side. It is positioned between the sliding coupler and the gear splines. The gear also has a conical friction surface that mates with the surface of the synchro-mesh.

When a gear is to be engaged, the shift linkage selects a sliding coupler to connect to a gear. At this point, the coupler and the gear to be engaged are usually spinning at different speeds. As the coupler starts to slide, it first engages the spline teeth of the synchro-mesh ring. Because the synchro-mesh is so lightweight, it can virtually instantly change speed to match the sliding coupler that was just forced into engagement with it. It then becomes part of the coupler. As the coupler continues to slide towards the gear splines, the friction surface of the synchro-mesh ring is pressed into contact with the friction surface of the gear assembly. This friction causes the transmission's input shaft (which at this point is hopefully disconnected from the engine by the clutch) to be accelerated (or decelerated) so that the coupler and the gear are spinning at the same speed when their spline teeth finally engage.

I think it's helpful to find some junk transmission parts to move around by hand to help visualize this process.

A synchro-mesh is limited in how much mass it can accelerate and how fast it can do it.

DOUBLE CLUTCHING:

There are *three* separate spinning entities that need to be coordinated when shifting: The engine. The transmission input. (I'm going to refer to this as the intermediate shaft). The transmission output (which is directly related to the vehicle speed).

When the clutch is disengaged (pedal pushed down) and the transmission is in neutral (such as when shifting between two gears), the intermediate shaft is essentially free spinning. In normal shifting, we rely on the synchro's to control the speed of the intermediate shaft as it engages with the gears connecting it to the transmission output.

Decades ago, transmissions didn't have synchro-mesh. (Many large trucks still don't). On these transmissions, it is necessary for the driver to manually control the speed of the intermediate shaft so that it matches the speed of the gear to be engaged. This is done by the following process when shifting from one gear to the next:

1) Power is removed and clutch is disengaged (pedal down). 2) Transmission is shifted from original gear to neutral. 3) Clutch is re-engaged (pedal up). (Driver now has control of intermediate shaft speed by controlling engine speed). 4) Driver 'blips' throttle to match intermediate shaft speed to speed of new gear. (This takes practice to get the right match). 5) Clutch is disengaged (pedal down). 6) Transmission is shifted from neutral into new gear. 7) Clutch is re-engaged (pedal up) and power is applied.

Steps 1 - 3 can be done casually or quickly. Steps 4 - 6 *must* be done quickly so that the intermediate shaft doesn't slow down again before it's engaged. If step seven is also done quickly, the engine will also be 'rev-matched' to the rest of the driveline so that engagement will be smoother.

REV-MATCHING:

When taking off from a stop and then going up through the gears, steps 1,2,6,7 above are the normal shifting method for each gear change. The synchro-mesh are more than enough to control the intermediate shaft speed. The engine will passively rev-match itself because it slows down naturally and this is appropriate when shifting up.

When down shifting, the engine needs to spin faster as it engages the new gear. This can be achieved by 'blipping' the throttle as the transmission passes through neutral. If the engine isn't manually sped up by the driver, it will be sped up by the driveline when the clutch is re-engaged. This can be OK for normal street driving, but if the car is cornering near the limit this can upset the suspension and the tire adhesion.

The synchromesh are usually adequate intermediate shaft control when down shifting one or two gears. Aggressive downshifts (like a 5 - 2 shift from high speed) can benefit by using double-clutch shifting to assist the synchro's. Shifting into first gear in a hard corner is nearly impossible without double-clutching (this is useful for those really tight hairpins, especially if they exit uphill).

LEARNING TO DOUBLE CLUTCH, REV-MATCH, ETC...

I think that the biggest problem people have learning these techniques is that they try to incorporate everything all at once. The following are suggestions that I have for progressively learning things one at a time.

GETTING INTO GEAR AT A STOP:

Because the synchro-mesh doesn't operate unless something is turning, it's easiest to get into first gear by shifting from neutral into first just before the car comes to a complete stop. If the car is already stopped, a lot of extra force may sometimes be required if the spline teeth don't match up. (Sometimes it might help to briefly re-engage the clutch to spin things around again). If the car is moving too fast, a lot of effort is required to get the lever into first (it might even 'crunch' if the synchro's capabilities are exceeded).

Try this exercise: When slowing to a stop, push in the clutch and *lightly* press the shift lever from neutral towards the first gear slot at around 10 MPH. Don't force it in. As the car slows down, there will be a point that the lever easily slips into gear by itself. This will occur just before the car comes to a stop.

What is happening here? The intermediate shaft quickly slows down (due to friction) to near zero speed. This results in a fairly large speed difference between the intermediate shaft and first gear. The first gear synchro *resists* the lever movement. As the car slows down first gear also slows down. When the car is almost to a stop, first gear has slowed down to the point that it nearly matches the intermediate shaft's speed. At this point, the synchro is able to accelerate the intermediate shaft to a matching speed. When the speeds match, the force required to engage the splines is reduced, and the lever slips into place.

This is a rather slow, passive rev-matching situation. Using this technique results in a smooth, low-effort engagement into first gear when coming to a stop at a light. It reduces the wear on the first gear synchro.

More importantly, this is a good way to learn to recognize the 'feel' of a properly actuated synchro. This light - touch engagement is something to strive for when learning to actively match revs with the engine and double clutching. Some people refer to this as treating the shift knob like an eggshell. By *accurately* shifting, shifts can actually be done faster than by forcing the shift lever with muscle. Again, it also has the benefit of reducing transmission and clutch wear.

SIDE NOTE ON GETTING INTO REVERSE:

Because reverse is done with an actual moving gear (and no synchro's), the car and the intermediate shaft must both be stopped for the gear teeth to match up. This is most commonly a problem if a person wants to go into reverse after the car has been idling in neutral. If one just pushes down the clutch pedal and shifts into reverse, it will grind.

One approach is to simply wait a couple of seconds after pushing down the clutch pedal so that the intermediate shaft can come to a halt before shifting into reverse. To do it faster, you can push down the clutch, shift briefly into one of the forward gears (using its synchro to slow down the intermediate shaft) and then shift instantly into reverse.

To instantly get into reverse after braking in a hard stop (such as when driving a gymkhana course), leave the transmission in the forward gear you were in. At the moment you get to zero speed, the lever can be thrown into reverse (because the intermediate shaft was halted when it was engaged to the last gear), and power can then be immediately applied.

SHIFTING UP WHILE ACCELERATING:

When shifting up from one gear to a higher gear both the engine and the intermediate shaft will naturally slow down. This will passively bring them near the speed of the higher gear. Because of this, active rev-matching or double-clutching are rarely required.

Another exercise: When upshifting, try to use the same 'egg-shell' pressure on the shift lever to slip it into the next gear. When the clutch pedal is pushed and the shift lever moves through neutral, the intermediate shaft drops in speed and will quickly match the speed of the higher gear. This is the point that it will almost *seem* to pull itself into gear. The engine takes slightly longer to slow down because it has more inertia. This usually works out well because it is a moment after the gear is engaged that the clutch needs to be re-engaged. If the clutch is re-engaged and the power smoothly reapplied at just the right time, there won't be any 'shock' in the drivetrain.

It's a little hard to describe in words, but with practice it's possible to integrate this entire upshift sequence into what seems like a single fluid motion that takes only a fraction of a second.

There are three indicators to determine how good a shift is: Was only light pressure required on the lever? Was the shift smooth? Was the shift fast?

To be complete, I should mention that there is one exception for forcing the shift lever. To get the very last little bit of acceleration out of a car, it can help to rush the shift sequence by forcing the shift lever into the next gear and re-engage the clutch with the engine already on-power. This can *slightly* reduce shift time and throw some extra inertia from the engine into the drive train. This technique definitely adds wear to the synchro's, the clutch and the rest of the drive train. If the car isn't being pushed to the point of lighting up the tires (which also accelerates wear), this technique isn't worthwhile.

Generally speaking, a really well executed light-touch shift can be done quicker than most people can power-shift. It certainly is friendlier to the car. The car will also handle better if it's accelerating on a twisty road. I usually only power-shift if I'm drag racing.

DOWNSHIFTING:

There are three basic scenarios involving downshifting that I can think of:

Downshifting (without braking) from an established original speed (such as when passing another car).

Downshifting while braking, and then re-accelerating in a straight line (no corner, such as when braking for a car that is turning up ahead).

Downshifting while braking to enter a corner.

(OK, I suppose there might also be occasion to downshift to enter a corner without braking, like when turning off a road with a low speed limit).

I listed these three scenarios in what I considered to be their order of difficulty.

Most people when they're learning to drive a manual transmission, learn to deal with downshifting for a corner first. They do it without active rev-matching or double-clutching (which, of course, is fine). By approaching and going through the corner at a casual rate, there isn't a big speed difference in the engine, intermediate shaft, or the rest of the driveline. The synchro's can handle the engagement, and it's possible to smoothly engage the clutch while *exiting* the corner. With additional practice it's possible to use this type of technique to get through corners reasonably quickly.

What's necessary to get through a corner as quickly as possible?

The tires basically have a fixed amount of traction on any given road surface. This traction can be used for braking, cornering, accelerating, or a combination of braking-cornering or accelerating-cornering. If the car is cornering near the limit, there is no traction available for braking or accelerating.

The suspension needs to stay stable and the steering needs to be a smooth as possible.

In simple terms, a good corner consists of braking in a straight line, smoothly transitioning into the corner, holding the corner for its tightest section, transitioning out of the corner onto the gas, and accelerating out of the corner's exit.

The two transitions are the most important parts here. The idea is to have the tires near their maximum traction while braking, and then to smoothly change the *direction* of the traction to sideways for the corner. It's the same thing when exiting the corner. The direction of the traction is changed so that car accelerates.

I want to re-emphasize that the goal is to hold the *level* of the tires' traction CONSTANT, while CHANGING only the *direction* of that traction.

If there is a gap between releasing the brakes and steering into a corner, two things occur. The suspension becomes unsettled (so it can't corner as well), and time that the tires could have been working is lost. Again, it's the same thing when getting out of the corner to accelerate.

How does shifting affect all of this? If there is any jerking of the driveline when cornering near the limit, this will cause the limit to be exceeded because of the additional load imposed, even though momentary, on the tires. The driver has to be concerned with interpreting the corner and the situation, and monitoring how the car is responding, all while trying to operate a steering wheel, shift lever and three pedals with two hands and two feet.

Most 'performance' corners require a reduction in speed. This implies that a downshift of one or more gears be made so that the car is in the correct gear to accelerate out of it. A five - two downshift is a big change.

When driving a fast corner, the downshift can't be done before braking because the car's initial speed would cause the engine to over-rev.

On a rear wheel drive car, power needs to be lightly applied to the wheels during the corner so that the suspension is neutral or oversteering slightly (this is touching on another subject). This means that the downshift needs to be done before entering the corner.

This leaves one place to downshift: towards the end of the braking phase of the corner.

The shift has to be done while braking, and the engine needs to be sped up so that it will rev-match the new gear so that the tires won't be jerked past their limit. All three pedals need to be operated at once. This is where heel and toe (ball and edge) operation of the brake and the gas is required. Depending on how many gears down the shift is, the abilities of the transmission's synchro's, and the general pre-disposition of the driver, double-clutching may also be called for to get the shift lever into gear.

BACK TO LEARNING THE TECHNIQUES:

Recall the three downshifting scenarios I described above. Many people that I've observed trying to learn to rev-match and double-clutch (including myself) will try to learn it while cornering. This is the most difficult downshift. It's much easier to practice without braking or cornering. The braking can be added second, and then finally the cornering.

Please remember to stay safe. Try to keep away from traffic when trying something new.

EXERCISE:

On a straight section of road, establish a steady speed in fifth gear (perhaps 50MPH). Without breaking (use your right foot on the gas pedal only), downshift into forth. Try to blip the gas as the shift lever passes through neutral so that the car doesn't doesn't pull backwards or forwards when the clutch is re-engaged. Don't try to accelerate once you're in forth. Just continue to maintain a steady speed. Shift back up into fifth. Again, try not to jerk the car. Repeat this sequence going back and forth from fifth to forth. If you've got everything right and smooth, the car will just go steady down the road as if you weren't shifting. The only thing different is the sound of the engine changing speeds. At least at first, don't worry about making the shift fast.

Next, try the same thing going back and forth between fifth and third. This will require a little more gas when blipping the throttle. Focus on keeping the car's forward motion rock-steady.

Once you've got that down, try different sequences of third, forth and fifth.

At this point, you might want to throw in double-clutching while downshifting. As the shift lever passes through neutral, momentarily let up the clutch pedal at the same time the throttle is being blipped. If it's done correctly, the shift lever should slip into place much easier than without double-clutching, especially when going from fifth to third.

Try a similar exercise at 40MPH using second, third and forth. When you can downshift into second (this usually requires double clutching) at 40MPH and not affect the car's motion, you've got a good handle on this exercise.

The last part of this exercise is to accelerate at the end of a downshift. The idea is to be going at a steady speed, downshift by two gears, and take off. Try to integrate this into a single fluid motion. The acceleration should just appear as a big push from behind, without any jerking. Slow back down to a steady speed and repeat.

It is a rare automatic transmission that can downshift from speed as good as a well done downshift with a manual.

If you are new to this, I wouldn't proceed past this exercise for at least several days of practice, and probably weeks.

EXERCISE WITH BRAKING:

With the car off, try to find a seating and foot position that allows you to operate the brake and the gas pedal with your right foot at the same time using the ball and edge position I described. While pushing on the brake pedal, try to learn to blip the gas pedal without varying the pressure on the brake.

This inevitably will feel *very unnatural* at first.

In the course of your normal driving, practice blipping the gas pedal while you brake (don't try to downshift). Trying doing it during light braking and heavy braking. Try to bring the engine up to different speeds. The idea is just to get used to blipping the throttle while braking, without worrying about accomplishing anything with the engine. The goal is to not let the operation of the gas pedal affect the braking.

When you think you're ready, try braking and blipping the gas to rev-match into a downshift.

The next step requires an open stretch of straight road without traffic.

Basically just brake from speed, to a rev-match downshift at the *end* of the braking. Accelerate back up and repeat. Try it with and without double-clutching. Try it with light braking and heavy braking.

All the usual goals apply: Smooth transitions. Light touch on the shift lever. Unified fluid shift motions.

Stop and go traffic is an excellent opportunity to practice this exercise. I know people that dislike driving a manual transmission during rush-hour. Personally, I prefer a manual because it gives me something interesting to do with my driving in an otherwise tedious situation.

CORNER ENTRY EXERCISE:

Suspension loading might best be practiced first without downshifting. The exercise is only about getting into a corner. Just push in the clutch while braking and don't worry about the gas. Wait until the corner is completed before trying to downshift or speeding up again.

Brake as you approach a corner. Try to be conscious of the level of braking force that you feel. When you reach the point where you start to turn the steering wheel, lift off of the brake in unison with moving the steering wheel.

The goal is to feel the force swing sideways without varying in intensity. You shouldn't feel any gaps in the 'tug'. There also shouldn't be any pulses in the force. Keep it smooth and uniform.

Try varying how fast you turn in. The faster you turn in, the faster you need to get off the brakes. Doing corners with slow turn-in is good for practice because it emphasizes the steering/braking coordination more.

FINALLY, THE WHOLE DEAL:

If you've gotten through all of the exercises up to this point, adding the final steps should be a relatively easy process.

Brake timing doesn't have to be an issue at first if you practice at reduced speeds with moderate deceleration. The main thing to focus on is to get the downshift timed so that it is *completed* just before you start to turn the steering wheel. As the clutch is re-engaged, the gas should be held at the level where it will be during maximum cornering force.

Transition the braking into steering as in the previous exercise. When it's time to straighten out, transition into the gas in a similar manner. Just swing the direction of the force around without any gaps or surges.

Here's the entire step by step process for a 90degree corner from a 55MPH road to another 55MPH road:

1) Begin braking. 2) Clutch pedal down, transmission lever in neutral. 3) Clutch up, blip throttle. 4) Clutch down, lever into second. 5) Clutch up, lightly apply the gas just enough to load the drivetrain. 6) Transition off of the brakes into the steering. 7) Hold the corner (maintain the gas just below where the back end would start to slip out. 8) Transition out of the steering into full gas. 9) Shift up when needed.

FINAL NOTE:

The whole process of learning to shift well takes lots of practice and determination, but it's well worth the effort. Everyone that I know who's learned to do this really ENJOYS shifting. I believe all of them have a really strong preference for manual transmissions. I know that I do.

I hope that all of this makes sense and that some of you will benefit from both the explanations and the exercises.

Regards,

Brian Brown. BMWCCA #130878 '96 318tiS

2008-08-07T18:54:00.000-07:00

The difference between an automatic transmission

The difference between an automatic transmission and a manual transmission can be summed up pretty much by the names. The automatic transmission will shift gears automatically according to the speed of the drive shaft and the engine rpm, A manual transmission will shift gears according to the input of the driver. Both are good for many reasons and both have their own quirks and idiosyncrasies.

For the beginner driver it is easier to learn the fundamentals of the road with an automatic because you're not fighting your car as well as dodging other cars. With an automatic the driver basically steers and controls the acceleration and deceleration of the car. The transmission does all the work of selecting the proper gear for the speed you are traveling. It removes the driver along with diver error from the shifting. Of course you can select what gear you want to be in with an automatic for certain applications, and as always a reverse gear. You can put the automatic transmission in 1st gear if you are pulling a load up a steep hill and you don't want the transmission shifting into a higher gear making it harder on the motor. On the whole however the driver will put the car in "Drive" and then forget about the gears until they are finished and put it in "Park".

The manual transmission requires the driver to make all the shifting decisions and also has to use the clutch. This takes a fair amount of concentration and requires all your limbs to be in good working order to drive properly. The driver must engage the engine with the transmission slowly and smoothly with the clutch in order to start moving and must then shift gears according to the speed he is going. Each time disengaging the motor from the transmission using the clutch, sliding the shift lever into the proper position and then reengaging the motor. This transmission gives the driver much more control over the vehicle, but also makes the driver responsible for all the shifting. Bad things can happen if the driver selects the wrong gear. You can stall a vehicle or possibly go into a compression skid situation. Once mastered however the act of shifting will become so common place that it will become second nature.

Each transmission is good for different reasons. If you are driving in the city and doing lots of stopping a starting the automatic will be much easier to drive. If you are off road and need a feather touch on the clutch to get over that certain obstacle then the manual is better. Most race cars are manual except for some drag cars where the driver has chosen the transmissions to shift so he can't make a mistake. On the whole cars and trucks today are coming out with automatics, which make the car drivable to a wider range of people. However if you take the time to learn how to drive a standard I think you will be pleased.

Automatic Transmission Pedal

Shifter for Automatic Transmission

Shifter for Manual Transmission

Manual Transmission Pedal

VolksWagen Moods

2008-07-15T03:46:00.000-07:00

VolksWagen Transporter: Nice Moods!

We found a very nice article about the VW Bus including many pictures of great mods. Enjoy!

2008-06-19T19:17:00.000-07:00

Our top 20 tips for smooth sailing on the road

Hitting the road on your next trip? Whether you're heading to Grandma's with the kids or hitting Route 66 for a cross-country jaunt, don't leave home without our tried and tested driving tips. Read on to learn more about avoiding traffic, saving money, and staying safe (and staying awake!) on your next road trip.

1. Before beginning a long drive, always get enough sleep and eat something before you go. Highly caffeinated beverages are not necessarily the best way to stay awake while driving. While initially you will feel more alert, the effects can recede with time, and your attention may wander although you remain awake.

2. Pull over and take breaks every couple of hours, even if you don't feel sleepy. Grab a snack, get some fresh air, and stretch your legs by walking around. If you need to, take a quick nap.

3. If you can, share the driving responsibilities with someone else. This will allow you to keep an eye on each other while driving and also enable you to nap without losing time. If you're driving alone, turn on the radio or put on some music, and keep your window cracked open. You may also want to refrain from using your cruise control if you're driving alone at night -- having to concentrate on maintaining your speed can help you stay awake.

4. If you do have to pull over -- pull off the road. Never park on the shoulder or in the breakdown lane for any reason except an emergency.

5. Know the laws along your route concerning cell phone use while driving. While it may be legal in one place, it may be illegal in another, and ignorance is not typically an acceptable excuse for a violation. Here's a handy chart of cell phone laws by state (keep in mind that this information can change at any time). However, even if it's legal to talk on a cell phone where you're going, it's usually safest to use a hands-free device.

6. If you don't know this one, shame on you. Never drink any alcohol before your trip. While you may not become intoxicated from one beer, you will become sleepy.

7. Keep an eye on the skies, and if you can, plan a route around inclement weather. A minor detour could actually wind up saving you major time.

8. Search the Web for traffic update sites and listen to radio traffic alerts, especially when approaching major cities. All-news stations on the AM dial are often your best bet. For more on cell phone directions, traffic reports and other useful travel information, check out Road Trip Resources.

9. You should plan out your exact route before you even leave the house -- but bring along a map just in case. While many folks like to print directions from Mapquest, Traveler's Ed examines a few other options in Mapping on the Web.

10. If you are driving a rental vehicle, familiarize yourself with the car and all of its equipment (horn, brakes, hazard lights). For an amusing but true look at this issue, see The First 10 Minutes of Your Car Rental.

11. Lock all of your valuables (especially items that are clearly gifts) in the trunk or glove compartment and stow all luggage in the trunk.

12. Familiarize yourself with local traffic laws, which vary from state to state and especially overseas. Is it legal to make a right turn at a red light? What are the rules on yielding to pedestrians? For more on international car travel, see Renting a Car Abroad.

13. Before setting off on a long car trip, be sure your vehicle is in prime condition -- that tires are properly inflated, that all fluids are at their proper levels and that you have a full tank of gas. (For particularly long road trips, you may want to have your mechanic do a more thorough check.)

14. Consider becoming a member of AAA or signing up for your car insurer's roadside assistance program. You won't regret it when your car breaks down on a lonely back road.

15. Keep costs down by conserving gas as you drive. Minimize sudden starts and stops, empty your car of all unnecessary weight, and slow down -- it takes much less fuel to drive 55 miles an hour than it does to drive 70. For more ideas, see Save Gas and Money.

16. Don't wait until your gas gauge is sitting on E to refuel. On an unfamiliar road, you never know when the next gas station will appear. As soon as you hit a quarter of a tank, start looking for a place to fill up.

17. When traveling with kids, be sure to stop often -- not just for snacks and potty breaks, but also for fun. See a cool playground along the way? Pull over and throw a Frisbee around. You'll also want to pack toys, books and music for the car -- not to mention your motion sickness remedy of choice. For more ideas, see Family Car Travel.

18. Feeling munchy? Stock up on snacks and drinks at grocery stores rather than gas stations or convenience stores -- you'll get a wider and healthier selection, as well as better prices.

19. On longer trips, keep napkins, plasticware and a small cooler handy for meals on the go. You'll also want some spare change for tolls, as well as a first-aid kit, flashlight, pillow and blanket. Keep a set of jumper cables, a spare tire or donut, and extra fluids for the car (such as windshield wiper fluid) in your trunk.

20. This last tip should go without saying, but it's important enough that we'll say it anyway: Make sure everyone in the car buckles his or her seatbelt. Not only will it keep you safe, but in many places it's also the law.

Source: http://www.independenttraveler.com/

Safety For The Aging Driver

2007-11-28T20:22:00.000-08:00

Generally, older drivers, especially over the age of 70, have more crashes per mile than any other group except teenagers and young adults. Also, it is more difficult for older drivers to recover from injuries suffered in a crash. If you are concerned about an aging driver, see "Referring An Unsafe Driver."

Health Problems Affecting Aging Drivers

Health problems in older adults cause slower reaction time, reduced vision and hearing, impaired body movement, and slower decision making. Health conditions such as glaucoma, arthritis, stroke, Alzheimer’s disease, etc., should be considered when making decisions about driving. In cases where a person’s driving must be restricted, DMV may issue a conditional license rather than revoking the person’s driving privilege.

Tips For Safer Driving

Be aware of the changes in your driving ability and that of your aging family members or friends. Here are some things you can do:

Don’t drive at night, at dusk, or in bad weather conditions.
Use a seat cushion or talk to your vehicle dealer about extensions for brake and accelerator pedals or other vehicle modifications.
Make sure your windshield and headlights are clean to help reduce glare.
Make sure your eyeglasses have an up-to-date prescription.
Talk to your physician for recommendations to help you drive safely.
Take a Mature Driver Program training class. For a list of approved programs, go online at www.dmv.ca.gov.
Attend a driver assessment or rehabilitation program.
Never drink alcohol and drive because your body can be more sensitive to the effects of alcohol, especially when combined with medications.
Consider using alternative means of transportation. Call your local Area Agency on Aging for a list of transportation providers in your area.

Referring An Unsafe Driver

If you are concerned that a family member, friend, or other person can no longer drive safely, write to the address below. You may also use the Request for Driver Reexamination (DS 699) located on DMV’s website. Provide the person’s name, birth date, driver license number and current address, and explain what you observed that led you to believe the person is an unsafe driver. The letter must be signed. Mail your letter to:

DMV
Driver Safety Actions Unit
M/S J234
P.O. Box 942890
Sacramento, CA 94290-0001

DMV will contact the person for a reexamination. A driving test will be given to the person when the:

Physician reports the person has lapses of consciousness.
Traffic officer requests a DMV review and the officer believes the driver is incapable of
operating a vehicle safely.
Family member makes a good-faith report to DMV stating the driver cannot safely operate a vehicle.

Vision

You need good vision to drive safely. If you cannot see clearly, you cannot judge distances or spot trouble, so you won’t be able to do something about it. You also need to see peripherally or “out of the corner of your eye” to spot cars coming up beside you while your eyes are on the road ahead.

You may see clearly and still not be able to judge distances. You need good distance judgment so you know how far you are from other cars. Many people who may see clearly in the daytime have trouble at night. Some see poorly in dim light. Others may have trouble with the glare of headlights.

Have your eyes checked every year or two. You may never know about poor peripheral vision or poor distance judgment unless you have your eyes checked.

Hearing

Hearing is more important to driving than many people realize. The sound of horns, a siren, or screeching tires can warn you of danger. Sometimes you can hear a car but you cannot see it, especially if it is in your blind spots.

Even people with good hearing cannot hear well if the radio, CD, or tape deck is blaring. While driving, do not wear a headset or earplugs in both ears.

Hearing problems, like bad eyesight, can come on so slowly that you do not notice them. Drivers who know they are deaf or hearing-impaired can adjust. They can learn to rely more on their seeing habits.

Alertness

When you are tired, you are less alert. The body naturally wants to sleep at night and most drivers are less alert at night, especially after midnight. You may not see hazards as soon or react as quickly, so your chances of having a crash are greater. If you are sleepy, the only safe cure is to get off the road and get some sleep.

To keep from getting tired on a long trip:

Get at least a normal night’s sleep before you start.
Don’t take any drugs that can make you drowsy.
Don’t drive long hours and try not to drive late at night.
Take regular rest stops, even if you are not tired.
Keep shifting your eyes from one part of the road to another. Look at objects near and far, left and right.
Try chewing gum or singing along with the radio.
Roll your window down and get some fresh air.

If you are tired all the time and fall asleep often during the day, ask your physician to check for a sleep disorder.

Medications

Remember that all medications, prescription and over-the counter, are potentially dangerous. Over-the-counter medicines that you take for colds and allergies can make you drowsy and affect your driving ability. If you must take medication before driving, find out the effects of the medication from your physician or pharmacist. It is your responsibility to know the effects of the medications you take.

Before you decide to drive, do not:

Mix medications unless directed by your physician.
Take medications prescribed for someone else.
Mix alcohol with your medications. This applies to both prescribed and over-the-counter medications.

Health And Emotions

Your personality affects the way you drive. Don’t let your emotions interfere with safe driving. Use all of your good judgment, common sense, and courtesy when you drive and follow all the recommended safe driving rules.

Discuss poor vision, heart problems, diabetes, or epilepsy with your physician and follow his or her advice. Tell DMV if you have a condition that might affect your ability to drive safely.

Conditions Physicians Must Report

Physicians and surgeons are required to report patients at least 14 years of age and older who are diagnosed as having lapses of consciousness, dementia (mental disorders) conditions, or related disorders. (Health & Safety Code Section 103900.

Although not required by law, your physician may report any other medical condition he/she believes may affect your ability to drive safely.

alifornia Driver Handbook

Miscellaneous

Designated Driver Program

The Designated Driver Program is an anti-DUI effort that works. The program encourages one individual to abstain from consuming alcoholic beverages for an outing so that he or she can be responsible for transporting the other members of the group safely.

To participate as a designated driver, an individual:

Should be at least 21 years of age and must possess a valid driver license.
Must be part of a group of two or more persons and verbally identify himself or herself as the designated driver to the server.
Must abstain from consuming alcoholic beverages for the duration of the outing.
Must not be an otherwise impaired driver.
Must understand that management reserves the right to refuse service to anyone at anytime.

Diplomatic Driver License

Nonresidents who possess a valid diplomatic driver license issued by the U.S. Department of State are exempt from California’s driver licensing requirement.

Driving Schools

When learning to drive, you should seek qualified instruction either in bona fide public or private high schools or in state licensed professional driving schools.

Professional schools and instructors in California are licensed by the DMV after meeting rigid qualifying standards. Schools must carry liability insurance, be bonded, and maintain complete records for DMV inspection. Vehicles are subject to annual inspection. Instructors must pass a qualifying written examination every three years, or show proof of continuing education in the traffic safety field. If you use the services of a professional driving school, ask to see the instructor’s identification card.

Free ID Cards For P&M Conditions

Drivers who are no longer able to drive safely because of a physical or mental (P&M) condition may exchange their valid driver license for an ID card for no fee, if certain guidelines are met. Call 1-800-777-0133 for additional information.

Identification (ID) Card

DMV issues ID cards to persons of any age. To obtain an original ID card, you must present a birth date/legal presence verification document (more info) and provide your social security number. The ID card is good until the sixth birthday after it is issued. The fee for an ID may be reduced if you meet certain income requirements for specific public assistance programs.

Note: Governmental or nonprofit organizations determine whether an individual meets the requirements for a reduced -fee ID.

If you are age 62 or over, you may obtain a free Senior Citizen ID card good for 10 years.

California Driver Handbook

Miscellaneous

Mature Driver Program

The Mature Driver Program is an eight-hour course for drivers aged 55 and older. The course covers a variety of topics of special interest to the mature driver and is available from course providers approved by DMV.

Your insurance company may offer discounts for those who complete the class and receive a completion certificate . The certificate is valid for three years and can be renewed by completing a four-hour course.

Pedestrian Responsibilities*

Yield the right-of-way to vehicles when you:

Cross or walk where intersections or crosswalks are not marked.
"Jaywalk" across a street between intersections, where no pedestrian crosswalks are provided.

Remember: Making eye contact with the driver does not mean that the driver will see you or yield the right-of-way.

Do not suddenly leave a curb or other safe place and walk or run into the path of a vehicle close enough to be a danger to you. This is true even though you are in a crosswalk. The law states that drivers must take care for the safety of any pedestrian— but if the driver can’t stop in time to avoid hitting you, the law won’t help you.

Always obey traffic signals. Whether the intersection has pedestrian signals or the usual traffic lights, you must obey the pedestrian rules. (More information about pedestrians) At an intersection where traffic is not controlled by signals, drivers are required to yield the right-of-way to you within any crosswalk, marked or unmarked.

When a signal first changes to green or "WALK" for you, look left, right, and then left again, and yield the right of way to any vehicle in the intersection before the signal changed.

If the signal begins blinking or changes to "DON’T WALK," or to an upraised hand after you have gone part way across a divided street, you may continue across the street.

Do not stop or delay traffic unnecessarily while crossing a street.

Pedestrians are not permitted on any toll bridge or highway crossing unless there is a sidewalk and signs stating pedestrian traffic is permitted.

If there is no sidewalk, walk facing the oncoming traffic (see the picture below). Don’t walk or jog on any freeway where signs tell you that pedestrians are not allowed.

At night, make yourself more visible by wearing white clothing and retro-reflective materials, or carrying a flashlight.

*Joggers must obey pedestrian rules.

Record Confidentiality

Most information in your driver license file is available to the public. Your residence address may only be viewed by authorized agencies. Your mailing address, if different from your residence, is less restricted.

Records on the physical or mental condition of a driver, however, remain confidential.

You may obtain a copy of your driving record at any DMV office for a fee and by providing valid identification.

Vehicle Theft Prevention Tips

If you follow the suggestions below, you can minimize your chances of becoming the victim of vehicle theft. In the United States, a vehicle is stolen an average of every 21 minutes. Vehicle theft costs the victim time and money and it costs society by increasing insurance premiums. Also, vehicle thieves often use the stolen vehicles to commit other crimes.

Vehicle thefts seem to occur more often where large groups of cars are parked for extended periods of time, such as shopping centers, colleges, sporting events, movie complexes, and large apartment complexes. Vehicle thefts can occur anytime—at random, on different days of the week and various times of the day.

Here are some tips you can use to avoid being the victim of vehicle theft:

Never leave:
- your vehicle running and unattended, even to dash into a store.
- the keys in the ignition or in the vehicle. Don’t leave them inside a locked garage or in hide-a-key boxes.
- valuables in plain view, even if your vehicle is locked. Place them out of sight.
- personal identification documents such as the ownership title or credit cards in the vehicle.
Always:
- roll up your windows and lock your vehicle, even if it’s parked in front of your house.
- park in high-traffic, well lighted areas, whenever possible.
- report a stolen vehicle immediately to the police.
Suggestions:
- Install a mechanical device that locks the steering wheel, column, or brakes.
- Investigate the purchase of a vehicle theft tracking/security system, especially if you own one of the frequently-stolen model vehicles.
- When you must leave your key with a valet, attendant, or mechanic, only leave the ignition key.
- Copy your license plate and vehicle information on a card and keep that information with you. The police will need this information, if your vehicle is stolen.

Traffic Breaks

Traffic breaks are used by law enforcement for several reasons:

to slow or stop traffic to remove hazards from the roadway.
conducting emergency operations.
prevent traffic accidents in heavy fog or unusually heavy traffic.

During a traffic break, the officer turns on the rear emergency lights, slows the vehicle and drives across the lanes of traffic in a serpentine manner. To assist the officer in conducting a traffic break, follow these rules:

activate your emergency flashers to warn other drivers there is a hazard ahead.
slowly begin to decrease your speed. Do not slow abruptly unless it is necessary to avoid a collision. Slow to the same speed while keeping a safe distance from the patrol car ahead of you.
do not attempt to drive past the patrol vehicle. Do not accelerate until the patrol vehicle has turned off its emergency lights and traffic conditions ahead allow the return of normal speeds.

California Driver Handbook

Signs

source: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/hdbk/signs.htm

Avoid Highway Gridlock

2007-11-28T20:03:00.000-08:00

Dealing With Traffic Congestion

Small changes in your driving habits can help relieve chronic traffic congestion, according to the California Office of Traffic Safety (OTS).

Avoid these driving behaviors:

Rubbernecking—slowing down to look at accidents or virtually anything else out of the ordinary.
Tailgating—following too closely.
Unnecessary lane changes— weaving in and out of freeway lanes.
Inattention—eating, grooming in the rearview mirror, talking on a cellular telephone, and reading the newspaper, etc.
Poorly maintained vehicles— vehicles malfunctioning or stalling on freeways or running out of fuel.

Dealing With Road Rage

Road rage happens when one driver reacts angrily to another driver. Some suggestions for avoiding road rage situations are:

Don’t cut off other drivers.
Don’t drive slowly in the left (fast) lane.
Don’t tailgate.
Don’t make gestures to other drivers.
Use your horn for emergencies only.

Prevent a potentially violent incident by:

Avoiding eye contact with an angry driver.
Giving an angry driver plenty of space.

Cellular Telephones

Cellular telephones can be a lifesaver in an emergency. In nonemergency situations, they can be a great tool if used properly. Use your cellular telephone in the following safe and responsible ways:

Drive to the side of the road to use your cellular telephone.
Use hands-free devices.
Have your phone within easy reach.
Don’t use the telephone during hazardous conditions.
Pay attention to the road.
Be sensible about dialing.
Don’t engage in distracting conversations.
Use your phone to call for help.

NOTE: Beginning July 1, 2008, with certain exceptions, you may not use a cellular telephone while driving unless hands-free equipment is used.

California Driver Handbook

Avoid Highway Gridlock - Accident Avoidance

Keep Your Car Visible

The driver’s blind spots are shown below. You cannot see vehicles in these blind spots if you only look in your mirrors. Turn your head to see if a car is in one of these blind spots. Drive through another driver’s blind spot as quickly as you can or drop back.

Shaded areas represent driver's blind spots

What Is The Road Like

The faster your speed, the less control you have of your car. Rather than driving at the legal posted speed limit, consider what else may affect the safe operation of your car. For example, should you drive 35 mph (the posted speed limit) on a curve down an icy mountain road? Many inexperienced drivers do not adjust their driving speed for each road’s conditions. That is one reason why inexperienced drivers have more “out-of-control” accidents than experienced drivers.

Curves

On curves, there is a strong outward pull on your vehicle especially when the road is slippery. Rain, mud, snow, or gravel make the road slippery. If a speed limit is not posted before a curve, you must judge how sharp the curve is and change your speed. Slow down before you enter the curve. Braking on a curve may cause you to skid.

Water On The Road

Slow down when there is a lot of water on the road. In a heavy rain at about 50 mph, your tires can lose all contact with the road and then your vehicle will be riding on water or “hydroplaning.” A slight change of direction or a gust of wind could throw your vehicle into a skid. If your vehicle starts to hydroplane, slow down gradually—don’t apply the brakes.

Slippery Roads

Slow down at the first sign of rain. This is when many roads are the most slippery because oil and dust have not been washed away. A slippery road will not give your tires the grip they need. Drive more slowly than you would on a dry road. Adjust your speed as follows:

Wet road—go five to ten miles slower.
Packed snow—reduce your speed by half.
Ice—slow to a crawl.

Some road surfaces are more slippery than others when wet and usually have warning signs. Here are some clues to help you spot slippery roads:

On cold, wet days, shade from trees or buildings can hide spots of ice. These areas freeze first and dry out last.
Bridges and overpasses tend to freeze before the rest of the road does. They can hide spots of ice.
If it starts to rain on a hot day, the pavement can be very slippery for the first several minutes. Heat causes oil in the asphalt to come to the surface. The oil makes the road slippery until it is washed off.

Driving In Heavy Traffic

Drive slower in heavy traffic because you have less room. Drive slower so you can stop in the distance you have.

As a general rule, drive more slowly:

In shopping centers, parking lots, and downtown areas.
On roads with heavy traffic.
When you see brake lights coming on several vehicles ahead of you.
Over narrow bridges and through tunnels.
Through toll plazas.
Near schools, playgrounds, and in residential areas.

Traffic Speeds

Accidents are more likely to happen when one driver goes faster or slower than other cars on the road.

If you drive faster than other traffic, you will have to keep passing other cars. Each time you pass another car, there is more risk of an accident. True, it may not be a big risk, but if you are passing one car after another, the risks begin to add up. Studies have shown that speeding does not save more than a few minutes in an hour’s driving.

Driving slower than other cars or stopping all of a sudden can be just as bad as speeding. It tends to make cars bunch up behind you and it could cause a rear-end crash. If many cars are passing you, move into the right lane and let them pass.

California Driver Handbook

Avoid Highway Gridlock - Handling Emergencies

Skids On Slippery Surfaces

A road that is normally safe can become dangerous when it’s slippery. Ice and packed snow on the road can cause your car to skid, especially if you are driving too fast or going downhill. If you start to skid:

ease off the gas pedal,
stop braking, and
turn the steering wheel in the direction of the skid.

If you can’t control your car on a slippery surface, try to find something to stop you. Try to get a wheel on dry pavement or on the shoulder of the road. You may have to edge slowly into a snow bank or some bushes to stop.

To prevent skidding on slippery surfaces:

Drive more slowly and stay farther behind the vehicle ahead.
Slow down as you approach curves and intersections.
Avoid fast turns.
Avoid quick stops. "Pump" the brakes to slow or stop. (Do not pump antilock brakes.)
Shift to low gear before going down a steep hill.
Avoid especially slippery areas, such as ice patches, wet leaves, oil, or deep puddles.

If the brakes get wet, dry them by lightly pressing the gas pedal and brake pedal at the same time so that the car drives against the pressure of the brakes. Do this only until the brakes dry.

Acceleration Skids

An acceleration skid usually happens when the drive wheels lose traction on the road surface. To maintain control of the vehicle, do not apply the brakes. Ease off the gas pedal and straighten the front wheels as the vehicle begins to straighten out.

Locked Wheel Skids

This type of skid is usually caused by braking too hard at a high rate of speed and locking the wheels. The vehicle will skid no matter which way the steering wheel is turned. Take your foot off the brake to unlock the wheels. Then straighten the front wheels as the vehicle begins to straighten out. Slow the vehicle gradually until you are at a safe speed to continue driving.

Steering Wheel Locking Device

Never turn your vehicle’s ignition to the "lock" position while it is still in motion or the steering will lock and you will lose control of your vehicle.

Causes Of Accidents

The most common causes of accidents are:

Unsafe speed
Driving on the wrong side of the road
Improper turns
Violation of the right-of-way rules
Violation of stop signals and signs

California Driver Handbook

Avoid Highway Gridlock - Accidents

If you see a vehicle’s hazard lights ahead, slow down. There may be an accident or other road emergency ahead. Stop and give assistance if asked, or pass very carefully.

Avoid driving near accidents, if you can. Those injured will be helped faster if other vehicles aren’t blocking the road. If you must drive near an accident, don’t slow down or stop just to look. You may cause another crash. Drive by carefully, watching for people in the road.

It is against the law to follow closely behind any fire engine, police car, ambulance, or other emergency vehicle with a siren or flashing lights.

Never drive to the scene of an accident, fire, or other disaster to look. You may be arrested for doing this. You may also block the way for police, fire fighters, and ambulances.

Obey any order from a police officer or fire fighter even if you need to ignore normal traffic laws or signs.

Involved In An Accident

If you are involved in an accident:

You must stop. Someone could be injured and need your help. If you don’t stop, you may be convicted of "hit and run" and could be severely punished.
Call 9-1-1, if anyone is hurt.
Move your vehicle out of the traffic lane, if no one is injured or killed.
Show your driver license, registration card, evidence of financial responsibility, and current address to the other driver or persons involved, or to any peace officer.
You (or your insurance agent, broker, or legal representative) must make a written report to the police or CHP within 24 hours of the accident if someone is killed or injured.
You (or your insurance agent, broker, or legal representative) must make a written report to DMV within 10 days, if required. (More Information about financial responsibility and accident involvement)
Leave a note with your name and address in the car or securely attached to it if you hit a parked vehicle or other property. Report the accident to the city police or, in unincorporated areas, to the CHP.
Find the owner and report to authorities as mentioned above, if your parked vehicle rolls away and hits another vehicle.
Call the nearest humane society or call the police or CHP, if you kill or injure an animal. Do not try to move an injured animal or leave an injured animal to die.

California Driver Handbook

Actions That Result in Loss of License - Financial Responsibility - Insurance

Financial Responsibility

California’s Compulsory Financial Responsibility Law requires every driver and every owner of a motor vehicle to maintain financial responsibility (liability coverage) at all times. There are four forms of financial responsibility:

A motor vehicle liability insurance policy.
A deposit of $35,000 with DMV.
A surety bond for $35,000 obtained from a company licensed to do business in California.
A DMV issued self-insurance certificate.

You must carry written evidence of financial responsibility whenever you drive and you must show it to a peace officer after a citation stop or accident. You may have to pay a fine or have your vehicle impounded if you don’t.

Insurance

Insurance Requirements

The law states you must be financially responsible for your actions whenever you drive and for all motor vehicles you own. Most drivers choose to have a liability insurance policy as proof of financial responsibility. If you have an accident not covered by your insurance or you have no insurance, your driver license will be suspended. If the driver is not identified, the owner of the motor vehicle involved will have his or her driver license suspended.

The minimum amount your insurance* must cover per accident is:

$15,000 for a single death or injury.
$30,000 for death or injury to more than one person.
$5,000 for property damage.

Call 1-800-927-HELP before you purchase insurance to make sure your agent/broker and insurer are licensed by the California Department of Insurance.

If you are visiting California, or have just moved here, be aware that many out-of-state insurance companies are not authorized to do business in California. Before you drive here, ask your insurance company if you are covered in case of an accident. If you have an accident in California, all three of the following conditions must be met to avoid suspension of your driving privilege:

Your liability policy must provide bodily injury and property damage coverage which equals or exceeds the limits stated above;
Your insurance company must file a power of attorney, allowing the DMV to act as its agent for legal service in California; and
You must have insured the vehicle before you came to California. You cannot renew the out-of-state policy once the vehicle is registered in California.

Reporting The Accident

When you have an accident, report it to DMV within 10 days if:

More than $750 in damage was done to the property of any person.
Anyone was injured (no matter how slightly) or killed.

Each driver (or the driver’s insurance agent, broker, or legal representative) must make a report to DMV using the Report of Traffic Accident Occurring in California form (SR 1). The CHP or police will not make this report for you. Call 1-800-777-0133 and ask for the SR 1 or go online at www.dmv.ca.gov.

You must make this report:

Whether or not you caused the accident and
Even if the accident occurred on private property.

Your driving privilege will be suspended:

If you don’t make this report.
For four years, if you did not have proper insurance coverage. During the last three years of the suspension, your license can be returned if you provide a California Insurance Proof Certificate (SR 22) and maintain it during this period.

Accidents On Your Record

Every accident reported to DMV by:

Law enforcement shows on your driving record unless the reporting officer says another person was at fault.
You, or another party in the accident, shows on your record if any one person has over $750 in damage or if anyone is injured or dies.

It does not matter who caused the accident, DMV must keep this record.

Accidents, Insurance, and Minors

If you are under 18 years of age, your parents sign your license application and assume financial responsibility for your driving unless they ask DMV to cancel your license. When you reach age 18, your parents’ liability automatically ends.

If you are involved in an accident you may be liable for civil damages and you may also be fined.

*Low cost automobile policies are available in Alameda, Contra Costa, Fresno, Imperial, Kern, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside, Sacramento, San Bernardino, San Diego, San Francisco, San Joaquin, San Mateo, Santa Clara and Stainslaus counties. Please contact your insurance agent.

Actions Resulting in Loss of License - Drinking While Driving

Drinking And Driving Is Dangerous

You lose your judgment when you drink alcohol or use drugs. It is often the first thing about you that changes. Loss of judgment, or good sense, affects how you react to sounds, what you see, and the speed of other vehicles around you. It takes about an hour for the body to get rid of each “drink.” If a person has had more than one drink an hour, one hour of “sobering up” time should be allowed for each extra drink. Better still, someone who has not been drinking should drive. (See information about the Designated Driver Program.)

Drugs And Driving

Much of what has been said about alcohol also applies to drugs. California’s drunk driving law is also a drug driving law. It refers to “driving under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs.” If an officer suspects that you are under the influence of drugs, the officer can require you to take a blood or urine test. Drivers who refuse these tests are subject to longer license suspensions and revocations. Anyone convicted of possessing, selling, or manufacturing illegal drugs is subject to a six-month suspension.

The use of any drug (and the law does not distinguish between prescription, over-the-counter, or illegal drugs) which impairs your ability to drive safely is illegal. Check with your physician or pharmacist and read the warning label if you are not sure you should drive after taking any medication. Here are some facts:

Most drugs taken for colds, hay fever, allergy, or to calm nerves or muscles can make a person drowsy.
Medicines taken together, or used with alcohol can be dangerous. Many drugs have unexpected side effects when taken with alcohol.
Pep pills, “uppers,” and diet pills can make a driver more alert for a short time. Later, however, they can cause a person to be nervous, dizzy, and not able to concentrate. They can also affect vision.

Any drug that “may cause drowsiness or dizziness” is one you should not take before driving. Make sure you read the label and know the effects of any drug you use.

Carrying Alcohol In A Vehicle

The law is very strict about carrying alcohol or drugs in a vehicle whether the vehicle is on or off the highway. You must not drink any amount of alcohol in any vehicle.

A container of liquor, beer, or wine carried inside the vehicle must be full, sealed, and unopened. Otherwise, it must be in the trunk or in a place where passengers don’t sit. Keeping an opened alcoholic drink in the glove compartment is specifically against the law.

In a bus, taxi, camper, or motor home, the law does not apply to non-driving passengers.

Refer to the Designated Driver Program

Drivers Under 21 (Possession of Alcohol)

If you are under 21 years of age:

You may not have beer, wine or liquor in your vehicle unless accompanied by a parent or other person specified by law. Exception: You may carry alcoholic beverages while working for someone with an off-site liquor sales license.
You may not have an alcoholic beverage in your possession in your vehicle. If you are caught with an alcoholic beverage in your vehicle, it may be impounded for up to 30 days. The court may fine you up to $1,000 and either suspend your driving privilege for one year or require DMV to delay the issuance of your first license for up to one year, if you are not already licensed.
Your driving privilege will be revoked for one year, if you are convicted of either driving with a blood alcohol concentration (BAC) of .01% or higher or driving while under the influence of an alcoholic beverage. On the first offense you will be required to complete the educational portion of a licensed driving-under-the-influence (DUI) program. A subsequent offense may require a longer DUI program and you will not have a restricted license to attend the DUI program.

Drivers of All Ages

It is illegal to drive after consuming excessive alcohol in any form (including medications such as cough syrup), or taking any drug (including prescription medications), or using any combination of alcohol or drugs.

BAC Limits

It is illegal for any person to operate:

a motor vehicle with a BAC of .08% or higher.
any vehicle requiring a commercial driver license (with or without a CDL issued to the driver), with a BAC of .04% or higher.
a motor vehicle with a BAC of .01% or higher, if the person is under age 21.
a motor vehicle with any measurable BAC, if the person is under age 18.

A court may suspend the driving privilege of a person under 21, delay issuance of a license to a person who does not have a license, or require DMV to revoke a person’s driving privilege for DUI violations.

DMV can take an administrative action against your driving privilege after you are arrested and the court may take a separate action (suspend, revoke or delay the license) for the same offense. DMV’s action is related only to your driving privilege. The court’s action may involve payment of a fine, jail time, suspension or revocation of your driving privilege, and completion of a DUI program.

Similar provisions apply when you operate any vessel, aquaplane, water skis, or similar devices. (Harbors and Navigation Code) These convictions are placed on your driving record and will be used by the court to determine “prior convictions” for motor vehicle DUI sentencing. These convictions are also used when determining the length of a suspension or revocation action or the reinstatement requirements because of a violation you committed while driving a motor vehicle.

Actions Resulting in Loss of License

IF YOU DRINK AND DRIVE THE COST OF A DUI
ARREST CAN TOTAL $8,240*

*If you use an attorney, the cost is even greater.

ALCOHOL IMPAIRMENT CHARTS

DRIVING UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF ALCOHOL AND/OR DRUGS /IS ILLEGAL*

There is no safe way to drive while under the influence. Even one drink can make you an unsafe driver.

Drinking alcohol affects your Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC). It is illegal to drive with a BAC that is .08% or more (.04% or more if you drive commercial vehicles; .01% or more if under 21). However, a BAC below .08% does not mean that it is safe or legal to drive. The charts below show the BAC zones for various numbers of drinks and time periods. Remember: “One drink” is a 1 1/2-ounce shot of 80-proof liquor (even if mixed with non-alcoholic drinks), a 5-ounce glass of 12% wine, or a 12-ounce glass of 5% beer. These “one drink” equivalents change if you are drinking ale, malt liquors, fortified wines, port, brandy, different proof liquor, or if you are drinking on an empty stomach, are tired, sick, upset, or have taken medicines or drugs.

Text Alternative for this BAC/DUI Chart

HOW TO USE THESE CHARTS: Find your weight chart. Then, look for the total number of drinks you have had and compare that to the time shown. If your BAC level is in the grey zone, your chances of having an accident are 5 times higher than if you had no drinks, and 25 times higher if your BAC level falls in the black zone.

BLOOD ALCOHOL CONCENTRATION CHART
BAC Zones	90 to 109 lbs.								110 to 129 lbs								130 to 149 lbs.								150 to 169 lbs.
Time from 1st drink	Total Drinks								Total Drinks								Total Drinks								Total Drinks
Time from 1st drink	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8
1 hr
2 hrs
3 hrs
4 hrs

BLOOD ALCOHOL CONCENTRATION CHART Continued
BAC Zones	170 to 189 lbs.								190 to 209 lbs.								210 lbs. & Up
Time from 1st drink	Total Drinks								Total Drinks								Total Drinks
Time from 1st drink	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8	1	2	3	4	5	6	7	8
1 hr
2 hrs
3 hrs
4 hrs

Technical note: These charts are not legal evidence of actual BAC. Although it is possible for anyone to exceed the designated limits, the charts have been constructed so that fewer than 5 persons in 100 will exceed these limits when drinking the stated amounts on an empty stomach. Actual values can vary by body type, sex, health status, and other factors.

Legend:

(.01%–.04%) Possible DUI—Definitely unlawful if under 21 years old

(.05%–.07%) Likely DUI—Definitely unlawful if under 21 years old

(.08% Up) Definitely DUI*

*VC §§ 23152, 23153, 23136, 23140 DUI = Driving under the influence of alcohol and/or other drugs

Actions Resulting in Loss of License - Admin Per Se, Court DUI Convictions

ADMIN PER SE

When you drive in California, you consent to take a test of your breath or blood or, under certain circumstances, your urine if you are arrested for driving under the influence of alcohol, drugs or a combination of both.

Under 21 – Zero Tolerance for Alcohol Use. If you are under 21 you must submit to a preliminary alcohol screening (PAS) or one of the other chemical tests if you have been detained and a peace officer has reason to believe you were drinking alcohol. If your BAC measures .01% or a higher on the PAS, the officer may take your license, issue you a temporary license for 30 days, give you an order of suspension for one year, and then determine whether to release you, turn you over to juvenile authorities, or to contact your parents. You may request a DMV administrative hearing within 10 days.

If your PAS showed a BAC of .05%, the officer may require you to submit to either a breath or blood test. Some PAS devices provide a record which may be submitted in court as evidence. Other PAS devices do not provide a record, so the officer may ask for a breath or blood test after the PAS. You do not have a right to consult with a lawyer before selecting or completing a test.

If a subsequent test reveals a BAC of .05% or higher, the officer will issue you an order of suspension, arrest you for DUI (VC §23140), and detain you until you can be turned over to your parents or juvenile authorities. If your BAC is .08% or higher, the peace officer may arrest you. (VC §§23152 or 23153)

If the officer reasonably believes you are under the combined influence of alcohol and drugs and you have already submitted to a PAS and/or a breath test, you may still be required to submit to a blood or urine test because the breath test does not detect the presence of drugs.

If you refuse to submit to any of the tests, your driving privilege may be suspended for the refusal. Even if you change your mind later and agree to a test, your driving privilege may be suspended for both reasons, although both actions will run concurrently.

Court DUI Convictions

If you are convicted of driving with excessive BAC or while under the influence of either alcohol or drugs or both (DUI), you may be sentenced to serve up to six months in jail and to pay a fine between $390 and $1000 (plus about three times the fine in penalty assessments) the first time you are convicted. Your vehicle may be impounded and subject to storage fees.

On the first conviction the court will suspend your driving privilege for six months and require you to complete a DUI program before you can be reinstated. The length of the program may vary. If your BAC was .15% or higher and you already had a record of violations for other reasons or you refused to submit to a chemical test, the court may order you to complete a nine-month or longer program. If your BAC was .20% or higher and the court refers you to an enhanced DUI treatment program, your license will be suspended for 10 months.

In cases involving serious injury or death, you may be punished under California’s Three Strikes Law. You also could face a civil lawsuit. All DUI convictions will remain on DMV’s records for ten years and the courts and the DMV may impose more stringent penalties for subsequent violations during that period.

A BAC below legal limits does not mean that you are safe to drive. Almost all drivers show impairment by alcohol at levels lower than the legal limit. The impairment you exhibit at the time you are stopped may be enough to convict you of driving under the influence even without a BAC measurement.

Drivers 21 and Older—DUI Programs and Restricted Licenses

Completion of a DUI program is required for all DUI convictions.

Generally, if you are over 21 and enroll in a DUI program, file a California Insurance Proof Certificate (SR 22), pay the restriction and reissue fees, DMV will issue you a restricted driver license which allows you to drive to/from work and during the course of employment (unless you hold a commercial driver license) and to/from a DUI program. However, if you would be considered a “traffic safety” or “public safety risk” if permitted to drive, the court may order DMV not to grant you a restricted driver license. Other actions against you may also prohibit the issuance of a restricted license.

Second and subsequent DUI convictions result in increased penalties, including a two-year suspension or a revocation of up to four years. After you complete a prescribed period of your suspension/revocation and either enroll in, or complete a portion of, a DUI program, you may obtain a restricted license to drive anywhere necessary if you:

install an IID on your vehicle.
agree not to drive any vehicle without an IID.
agree to complete the prescribed DUI program.
file an SR 22.
pay the reissue and restriction fees.

Actions Against An Adult's License

If you are stopped by a police officer and cited for a traffic law violation, you sign a promise to appear in traffic court. When you go to court, you may plead guilty or not guilty, or you may forfeit (pay) bail. Paying bail is the same as a guilty plea.

If you ignore the traffic ticket and don’t keep your promise to appear in court, the failure to appear (FTA) goes on your driver record. If you fail to pay a fine (FTP), the court will notify DMV and this will also show on your driver record. Even one FTA or FTP can cause the department to suspend your license. Ending the suspension will cost you a reissue fee of $55.

Each time you are convicted of a moving traffic law violation, the court notifies the DMV and the conviction is placed on your driver license record. Convictions reported by other states are also added to your driver record.

Points on The Driver Record

DMV keeps a public record of all your traffic convictions and accidents. Each occurrence stays on your record for 36 months or longer, depending on the type of conviction.

You may be considered a negligent operator when your driving record shows any one of the following "point count" totals regardless of your license class:

4 points in 12 months
6 points in 24 months
8 points in 36 months

Some examples of one point violations:

A traffic conviction.
An at-fault accident.

Examples of two point violations:

Reckless driving or hit-and-run driving
Driving under the influence of alcohol/drugs
Hit-and-run driving
Driving while suspended or revoked

If you get too many "points," you will lose your driver license. A violation received in a commercial vehicle carries one and one-half times the point count normally assessed.

Actions Resulting in Loss of License - Actions Against The Provisional License

Teenagers as a group average twice as many accidents as adult drivers, while driving only half as many miles. This makes the teenage accident rate per mile four times as great as that of adult drivers.

Studies show that the traffic deaths of new drivers is a deadly combination of their inexperience, their lack of familiarity with their car, and their need to push themselves and their vehicle to the limit.

Traffic Violations Increase Accidents

Nearly half of the drivers between ages 15 and 19 are convicted of a traffic violation in their first year of driving.

Speeding (which often results in loss of vehicle control) is the most common moving violation for
teenage drivers. About 50% of all their traffic convictions are speed violations.

When you violate traffic laws, you increase your chances of having an accident.

Teenage Traffic Deaths

Drivers 15 to 19 years old have very high traffic accident, injury, and conviction rates. Traffic accidents are the leading cause of death for teenagers. If you are under 18 years old, your risk of a fatal accident is about 2½ times that of the “average” driver. Your risk of an injury accident is three times higher than the average driver.

Keeping The Provisional License

DMV will be watching your driving record and will take actions based upon any accidents or violations as follows:

If you get a traffic ticket and fail to appear in court, DMV will suspend your driving privilege until you appear in court.
If you get a traffic ticket and fail to pay the fine, DMV will suspend your driving privilege until you pay the fine.
If you have one "at fault" accident or conviction within 12 months, DMV will send you a warning letter.
If you have a second "at fault" accident or conviction (or combination of both) within 12 months, you cannot drive for 30 days unless accompanied by your parent or other licensed adult who is at least 25 years of age.
If you have a third "at fault" accident or conviction (or any combination) within 12 months, you will be suspended for six months and be placed on probation for one year.
If you have additional "at fault" accidents or point count convictions while you are on probation, you will be suspended again. (Traffic law violations resolved in Juvenile Court are also reported to DMV.)
If you are convicted of using alcohol or a controlled substance and you are between the ages of 13 and 21, the court tells DMV to suspend you for one year. If you don’t have a driver license yet, the court tells DMV to make you wait a year longer before you can apply for a license. You can also be required to go to a DUI program.

Any restriction, suspension or probation will continue past your 18th birthday for its full term.

Other, stronger actions can be taken if your driving record justifies them. Remember, when your driving privilege has been suspended or revoked, you may not drive in California with any license or permit.

Vandalism/Graffiti—All Ages

California law allows the courts to suspend the driver license for two years of a person convicted of engaging in vandalism, including graffiti. If you are convicted and do not have a license, the courts can delay the issuance of a license for up to three years from the date you are legally eligible to drive.

Speed Contests/Reckless Driving

A person convicted of driving recklessly or engaging in a speed contest which causes bodily injury to another person is subject to:

imprisonment in a county jail or state prison for a minimum of 30 days to six months
- a fine ranging from $220 to $1000 or
- both fine and imprisonment

(VC §23105 and VC §23109.1)

Evading a Peace Officer

Any person who willfully flees or attempts to evade a peace officer performing his/her duties is guilty of a misdemeanor punishable by imprisonment in a county jail for not more than one year. (VC §2800.1)

If a person is convicted of causing serious bodily injury during the course of a police pursuit (VC §2800.3[a]), he/she is subject to:

imprisonment in a state prison for three, five, or seven years or in a county jail for not more than one year
a fine of not less than $2,000 nor more than $10,000
both a fine and imprisonment

If a person is convicted of killing anyone during the course of a police pursuit (VC §2800.3[b]), he/she is subject to imprisonment in a state prison for four, six, or ten years.

Habitual Truant—Persons Age 13 To 18

The court will suspend, restrict, delay, or revoke your driving privilege for one year if you are convicted of being a habitual truant from school.

Possessing Firearms

The court will:

Suspend or revoke the driving privilege of any minor convicted of possessing a concealable weapon or live ammunition or
Impose driver license sanctions for minors convicted of misdemeanors involving firearms.

Actions Resulting in Loss of License

Traffic Violator School Dismissals

When a driver is cited for a traffic violation, the judge may offer the driver the opportunity to attend a Traffic Violator School. Drivers who do not have a commercial license may participate once in any 18-month period to have a citation dismissed from their driving record this way.

NOTE: If you have a commercial license and attend traffic school the citation will still appear on your driving record regardless of the type of vehicle you were driving when cited.

Suspension Or Revocation By DMV

If you get too many negligent driver points, DMV will place you on probation for one year (which includes a six month suspension) or revoke your driving privilege. Your suspension or revocation order informs you of your right to a hearing.

At the end of the suspension or revocation period, you may apply for a new license and you must show proof of financial responsibility.

DMV will revoke your license if you are convicted of hit-and-run driving or reckless driving which results in injury.

Suspension By Judge

A judge may suspend a person’s license if convicted of the following:

Breaking speed laws or reckless driving.
Driving under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
Hit-and-run driving.
Engaging in lewd conduct and prostitution in a vehicle within 1000 feet of a residence.
Assaulting a driver, passenger, bicyclist, or pedestrian when the offense occurs on a highway (road rage).
Failure to stop as required at a railway grade crossing.
Felony or misdemeanor offense of recklessly fleeing a law enforcement officer.

Regardless of point count, many serious offenses in which a vehicle is used are punishable by heavy penalties such as fines and/or imprisonment.

source: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/hdbk/signs.htm

sharing the road with other vehicle

2007-11-28T19:53:00.000-08:00

SHARING THE ROAD WITH OTHER VEHICLES

Large Trucks and RVs

To reduce the chance of having an accident with a large truck or RV, you must be familiar with a big rig’s physical capabilities and how they maneuver.

Braking

Large trucks take longer to stop than a car traveling at the same speed. The average passenger vehicle traveling at 55 mph can stop in about 400 feet. However, a large truck traveling at the same speed can take almost 800 feet to stop. Don’t move in front of a large truck and suddenly slow down or stop. The trucker will not be able to stop quickly enough to avoid crashing into you.

Turning

When any vehicle makes a turn, the rear wheels follow a shorter path than the front wheels. The longer the vehicle, the greater the difference. This is why big rig drivers must often swing wide to complete a right turn. When you follow a big rig, look at its turn signals before you start to pass. If you think the truck is turning left—wait a second and check the turn signals again. The driver may actually be turning right.

Shaded areas are the driver's blind spots.

Trucker's Blind Spots - The NO ZONE

Passenger vehicle drivers incorrectly assume that a trucker can see the road better because he or she is higher off the road. While truckers do have a better forward view and bigger mirrors, they still have serious blind spots and your vehicle can get lost in those blind spots. You block the trucker’s ability to take evasive action to avoid a dangerous situation if you stay in those blind spots. Generally speaking, if you can’t see the truck driver in his or her side mirror, he or she can’t see you. These blind spots are often called the “NO ZONE.”

Maneuverability

Trucks are designed to transport products and they are not as maneuverable as passenger vehicles. Large trucks have longer stopping and starting distances. They take more space for turns and they weigh more. On multilane highways and freeways, large trucks usually stay in the center portion of the lane to help the flow of traffic. This also increases the trucker’s options in case he or she must change lanes to avoid a hazard.

Avoid these mistakes when driving around large trucks.

Cutting off a truck in traffic or on the highway to reach an exit or turn. Cutting into the open space in front of a truck is dangerous. Trying to beat a truck through a single lane construction zone, for example, removes the truck driver’s cushion of safety and places you in danger. Slow down and take your turn entering the construction zone. Don’t speed up to pass a truck so you can exit the roadway. Take a moment to slow down and exit behind a truck—it will only take you a few extra seconds.
Don’t linger alongside a truck when passing. Always pass a large truck on the left side and after you pass the truck, move ahead of it. Don’t linger, because if you do you make it very difficult, if not impossible, for the trucker to take evasive action if an obstacle appears in the road ahead.
Following too closely or tailgating. When you follow so closely behind a truck that you cannot see the truck driver’s side view mirrors, the trucker has no way of knowing you are there. Tailgating a truck, or any vehicle, is dangerous because you take away your own cushion of safety. Where will you go when the vehicle in front of you stops quickly?
Never underestimate the size and speed of an approaching tractor-trailer. A large tractor-trailer often appears to be traveling at a slower speed because of its large size. Many passenger vehicle vs. large truck accidents take place at intersections because the passenger vehicle driver did not realize how close the truck was or how quickly it was traveling.

California Driver Handbook

Sharing the Road with Other Vehicles

Buses, Streetcars, and Trolleys

Do not drive through a safety zone, which is a space set aside for pedestrians and marked by raised buttons or markers on a roadway.

When people are boarding or leaving a streetcar or trolley where there is no safety zone, stop behind the vehicle’s nearest door or vehicle platform and wait until the people have reached a safe place.

When a bus, streetcar, or trolley is stopped at a safety zone or at an intersection where traffic is controlled by a police officer or traffic signal, you may pass, as long as it is safe to do so, and at no more than 10 mph.

Do not overtake and pass any light rail vehicle or streetcar on the left side, whether it is moving or standing.

Exceptions:

When you are on a one-way street.
When the tracks are so close to the right side that you cannot pass on the right.
When a traffic officer directs you to pass on the left.

Safety Zones are marked by dotted white lines

Light Rail Vehicles

Light rail vehicles have the same rights and responsibilities on public roadways as other vehicles. Although everyone must follow the same traffic laws, light rail vehicles, because of their size, require exceptional handling ability.

Safely share the road with light rail vehicles by:

Being aware of where light rail vehicles operate. Buildings, trees, etc., cause blind spots for the trolley operator.
Never turning in front of an approaching light rail vehicle.
Maintaining a safe distance from the light rail vehicle if it shares a street with vehicular traffic.
Looking for approaching light rail vehicles before you turn across the tracks. Complete your turn only if a signal (if installed) indicates you may proceed.

Do not turn in front of light rail vehicles

NOTE: Light rail vehicles can interrupt traffic signals, so do not proceed until the signal light indicates you may.

Emergency Vehicles

You must yield the right of way to any police car, fire engine, ambulance, or other emergency vehicle using a siren and red lights. Drive as close to the right edge of the road as possible and stop until the emergency vehicle(s) has passed. However, never stop in an intersection. If you are in an intersection when you see an emergency vehicle, continue through the intersection and then drive to the right as soon as you can and stop. Emergency vehicles often use the wrong side of the street to continue on their way. They sometimes use a loud speaker to talk to drivers blocking their path.

Yield to Emergency Vehicles

You must obey any traffic direction, order, or signal by a traffic or police officer or a fire fighter even if it conflicts with existing signs, signals, or laws.

It is against the law to follow within 300 feet of any emergency vehicle which is answering an emergency call.

If you drive for sight-seeing purposes to the scene of a fire, accident, or other disaster you may be arrested. Casual observers interfere with the essential services of police, fire fighter, ambulance crews, or other rescue or emergency personnel.

California Driver Handbook

Sharing the Road with Other Vehicles

SLOW MOVING VEHICLES

Some vehicles are not designed to keep up with the speed of traffic. Look for these vehicles and adjust your speed before you reach them.

Farm tractors, animal-drawn carts, and road maintenance vehicles usually travel 25 mph or less. Slow moving vehicles have an orange triangle on the back. It looks like this sign.

Also, be aware that large trucks and small, under powered cars lose speed on long or steep hills and they take longer to get up to speed when entering traffic.

Certain other types of slow moving motorized vehicles (such as wheelchairs, scooters and golf carts) may legally operate on public roads. Adjust your speed accordingly.

ANIMAL DRAWN VEHICLES

Horse drawn vehicles and riders of horses or other animals are entitled to share the road with you. It is a traffic offense to scare horses or stampede livestock. Slow down or stop, if necessary, and when requested to do so by the riders or herders.

MOTORCYCLES

Motorcyclists have the same rights and responsibilities as automobile drivers. While everyone must follow the same traffic laws, motorcyclists face unusual dangers because motorcycles are hard to see (many motorcycles keep their headlight on, even during daylight hours) and they require exceptional handling ability.

Follow these rules to respect the right-of-way and safely share the road with motorcyclists:

When you change lanes or enter a major thoroughfare, make a visual check for motorcycles. Also use your mirrors. Motorcycles are small and they can easily disappear into a vehicle’s blind spots.
Allow a four-second following distance. You will need this space to avoid hitting the motorcyclist if he or she falls.
Allow the motorcycle a full lane width. Although it is not illegal to share lanes with motorcycles, it is unsafe.
When you make a turn, check for motorcyclists and know their speed before turning.
Remember that road conditions which are minor annoyances to you pose major hazards to motorcyclists. Potholes, gravel, wet or slippery surfaces, pavement seams, railroad crossings, and grooved pavement can cause motorcyclists to change speed or direction suddenly. If you are aware of the effect of these conditions and drive with care and attention, you can help reduce motorcyclist injuries and fatalities.

BICYCLES

Bicyclists on public streets have the same rights and responsibilities as automobile drivers. Respect the right-of-way of bicyclists because they are entitled to share the road with other drivers. Here are some critical points for drivers and cyclists to remember:

Bicyclists:
- must ride in the same direction as other traffic, not against it.
- must ride in a straight line as near to the right curb or edge of the roadway as practical— not on the sidewalk.
- must make left and right turns in the same way that drivers do, using the same turn lanes.
- may legally move left to turn left, to pass a parked or moving vehicle, another bicycle, an animal, or to make a turn, avoid debris, or other hazards.
- may choose to ride near the left curb or edge of a one-way street.
- may use a left turn lane. If the bicyclist is traveling straight ahead, he or she should use a through traffic lane rather than ride next to the curb and block traffic making right turns.
- are lawfully permitted to ride on certain sections of freeways, when signs are posted. Be careful when approaching or passing a bicyclist on a freeway.
Drivers must:
- look carefully for bicyclists before opening doors next to moving traffic or before turning right.
- safely merge toward the curb or into the bike lane.
- not overtake a bicyclist just before making a right turn. Merge first, then turn.

Turns for bicyclists

Intersections with special lanes

California Driver Handbook

Sharing the Road

Pedestrians Who Are Blind

Pedestrians using guide dogs or white canes with or without a red tip must be given the right of way at all times. These pedestrians are partially or totally blind, so be especially careful when turning corners or backing up.

Here are some suggestion for helping pedestrians who are blind:

Don’t stop your car more than five feet from the crosswalk. The blind pedestrian uses the sound of your engine as a guide, so drive up to the crosswalk to allow the person to hear you.
Don’t give the blind pedestrian verbal directions. The blind pedestrian listens to all traffic sounds before deciding to cross the street.
Don’t wait too long for the blind pedestrian to cross the street. If the person takes a step back and pulls in his or her cane, that’s a definite sign that you should go.
Don’t turn right on red without looking first. Look for any pedestrian or other traffic first before starting your turn.
Stop at all crosswalks where pedestrians are waiting.
Don’t stop in the middle of a crosswalk. This forces the blind pedestrian to go around your car and into traffic outside of the crosswalk.
Don’t block any sidewalk.
Don’t honk at a blind person. The blind person has no idea who you are honking at and may be scared by the noise

Road Workers & Work Zones

Pay more attention where road work is being performed. Signs and message boards warn you of workers, slow moving equipment, and closed lanes ahead. Cones and/ or drums will direct you to open lanes. Merge as soon as possible without crossing the cones or drums. Reduce your speed and be prepared to slow down or stop for highway equipment.

The most common cause of motorist deaths and injuries in work zones is rear-end collisions. For your own safety and the safety of your passengers, remember to slow down, allow extra following room, merge early, expect sudden slowing or stopping, watch for drivers changing lanes at the last minute, and do not use your telephone while in the Cone Zone.

Keep your eyes on the road and vehicles ahead. Do not stop to watch the road work. Obey special signs or instructions from workers.

It’s for your own safety and the safety of road workers that you drive carefully through highway work zones. Remember to “Slow for the Cone Zone.”

Double Fine Zones

Due to increased accidents, injuries, and fatalities, certain roads are designated as “Safety Enhanced-Double Fine Zones.” Fines are doubled in these areas and also in highway construction or maintenance zones when workers are present. (VC §42010)

Move Over & Slow Down

Effective January 1, 2007, drivers are required to Move Over and Slow Down when approaching a roadside emergency along a state highway or freeway. The law is designed to reduce the deaths of police officers, towtruck drivers, paramedics and other emergency personnel who are aiding stranded motorists. Use caution if lane changes are required.

California Driver Handbook

Sharing the Road With Other Vehicles

Vehicles With Hazardous Loads

Diamond shaped signs mean that the load on the truck is potentially dangerous (gas, explosives, etc.). CHP or fire department officers know what to do if the load is accidentally spilled. Vehicles which display these signs, are required to stop before crossing railroad tracks.

Source: (California Driver Handbook) http://www.dmv.ca.gov

Safe Driving Practices--california

2007-11-28T19:52:00.000-08:00

California Driver Handbook

Safe Driving Practices - SEAT BELTS

Seat belts, both the lap belt and shoulder harness, must be in good working order. You may not operate your vehicle unless you and all your passengers 16 years of age or over, or who weigh 60 lbs. or more, are wearing seat belts. If seat belts are not worn, you may be given a traffic ticket. Also, the driver will be given the ticket if a passenger, younger than 16, is not wearing his/her seat belt.

Always use your seat belts (including the shoulder harness) if your vehicle is equipped with them and even if the vehicle is equipped with air bags. If you wear only a lap belt when driving, your chances of living through an accident are twice as good as someone who doesn’t wear a lap belt. If you wear a lap and shoulder belt, your chances are three to four times better.

Pregnant women should wear the lap belt as low as possible under the abdomen and the shoulder strap between the breasts and to the side of the abdomen’s bulge.

WARNING: Using seat belts reduces the chance of being thrown from your vehicle in case of an accident. If you don’t install and use a shoulder harness with the seat (lap) belt, serious or fatal injuries may happen in some crashes. Lap-only belts increase the chance of spinal column and abdominal injuries—especially in children. Shoulder harnesses may be available for your vehicle, if it is not already equipped with them.

Mistaken Beliefs About Seat Belts

Safety belts can reduce injuries and deaths. Many studies and actual crash tests have proven this. Have you heard these stories?

"Seat belts can trap you inside a car." It actually takes less than a second to take off a seat belt. This scare tactic often describes a car that caught fire or sank in deep water. A seat belt may keep you from being "knocked out." Your chance to escape is better if you are conscious.
"Seat belts are good on long trips, but I don’t need them if I’m driving around town." Half of all traffic deaths happen within 25 miles of home. Don’t take chances with your life or the lives of your passengers. Buckle up every time you drive.
"Some people are thrown clear in a crash and walk away with hardly a scratch." Your chances of surviving an accident are five times as good if you stay inside the car. A seat belt can keep you from being thrown into the path of another car.
"I’m only going to the store. My little brother or sister doesn’t need a child’s car seat, anyway. It’s too much hassle." Car accidents are the No. 1 preventable cause of death for children. Buckle them up in an approved safety seat. It’s worth it, and the law requires that you do.

The pictures illustrate what can happen in an accident. Your car stops, but you keep on going at the same speed you were traveling until you hit the dashboard or windshield. At 30 mph this is like hitting the ground from the top of a three-story building.

If you were struck from the side, the impact could push you back and forth across the seat. Belts and straps keep you in a better position to control the car.

CHILD RESTRAINT SYSTEM AND SAFETY SEATS

Any child under the age of six weighing less than 60 pounds must be secured in a federally approved child passenger restraint system and ride in the back seat of a vehicle.

A child under the age of six weighing less than 60 pounds may ride in the front seat of a vehicle when:

There is no rear seat or the rear seats are either side-facing jump seats or rear-facing seats.
The child passenger restraint system cannot be installed properly in the rear seat.
All rear seats are already occupied by children under the age of 12 years.
A medical reason requires the child to ride in the front seat.

A child may not ride in the front seat of an airbag-equipped vehicle if the child:

Is under one year of age.
Weighs less than 20 pounds.
Is riding in a rear-facing child passenger restraint system.

Children ages six and older but less than 16 and children under age six who weigh more than 60 pounds, must be properly secured in an appropriate child passenger restraint system or safety belt which meets federal safety standards.

RIDING SAFELY WITH AIR BAGS

Most people can take steps to eliminate or reduce risk without turning off air bags. The biggest risk is being too close to the air bag. An air bag needs about 10 inches of space to inflate. Ride at least 10 inches (measured from the center of the steering wheel to your breastbone) from the air bag cover if you can do this while maintaining full control of the vehicle. If you cannot safely sit 10 inches away from the air bag, contact your vehicle dealer or manufacturer for advice about additional ways of moving back from your air bag.

Passengers should also sit at least 10 inches away from the passenger-side air bag.

SIDE-IMPACT AIR BAGS

Side-impact air bags can provide extra safety benefits to adults in side-impact crashes. However, children who are seated next to a side air bag may be at risk of serious or fatal injury. Since there are differences in the design and performance of side air bags, you should consider the benefits and risks associated with the use of side air bags if you transport children. Studies have shown that children who are leaning against a side air bag when it inflates are at risk of serious injury. These studies also show that children who are traveling in an age and weight-appropriate, and correctly installed child restraint system, are not at risk of serious injury. These children are usually not in the path of a side air bag when it inflates.

UNATTENDED CHILDREN IN MOTOR VEHICLES

It is illegal to leave a child six years of age or younger unattended in a motor vehicle when:

There are conditions that present a significant risk to the child’s health or safety. Example: Leaving a child in a closed car on a very hot day.
The vehicle’s engine is running, the keys are in the ignition, or both. Children can start or move the car causing injuries and/or deaths to themselves or others.
Exception: The child may be left under the supervision of a person 12 years of age or older.

The court may fine violators and require the person to attend a community education program.

Also, the penalties for leaving an unattended child in a vehicle are more severe if the child is injured, requires emergency medical services, or dies.

Laws and Rules of the Road

2007-11-28T19:32:00.000-08:00

Right of Way Rules

General Information

Right-of-way rules together with courtesy and common sense help to promote traffic safety. It is important to respect the right-of-way of others, especially pedestrians, motorcycle riders, and bicycle riders.

Respecting the right-of-way of others is not limited to situations such as yielding to pedestrians in crosswalks, or watching carefully to ensure the right-of-way of bicyclists and motorcyclists. Motorists must respect the rightof- way of others by not violating traffic laws such as failing to stop at a stop sign or traffic light, speeding, making unsafe lane changes or illegal turns. Statistics show that a high percentage of injury accidents in California are caused by right-of- way violations.

Pedestrians

Pedestrian safety is a serious issue. One in six traffic fatalities is a pedestrian. Drive cautiously when pedestrians are near because they may cross your path.

A pedestrian is a person on foot or who uses a conveyance such as roller skates, skateboards, etc., other than a bicycle. A pedestrian can also be a person with a disability on a tricycle or quadricycle or in a wheelchair.

Respect the right-of-way of pedestrians. Always stop for any pedestrian crossing at corners or other crosswalks and at corners with or without traffic lights, whether or not the crosswalks are marked by painted lines.
Do not pass a car from behind that has stopped at a crosswalk. A pedestrian you can’t see may be crossing.
Do not drive on a sidewalk, except to cross it at a driveway or alley. When crossing, yield to any pedestrian.
Do not stop in a crosswalk. You will place pedestrians in danger.
Remember—if a pedestrian makes eye contact with you, he or she is ready to cross the street. Yield to the pedestrian.
Pedestrians have the right of way at corners with or without traffic lights, whether or not the crosswalks are marked by painted white lines.
Allow older pedestrians more time to cross the street.

Information regarding pedestrians who are blind can be found here.

Crosswalks

A crosswalk is that part of the pavement where the sidewalk lines would extend across the street and it is set aside for pedestrian traffic. Every intersection has a pedestrian crosswalk whether or not there are painted lines on the street. Most crosswalks are at corners but they can also be in the middle of the block. Before turning a corner, watch for people about to cross the street. Pedestrians have the right of way in crosswalks.

Crosswalks are often marked with white lines. Yellow crosswalk lines may be painted at school crossings. Most often, crosswalks in residential areas are not marked.

Some crosswalks have flashing lights to warn you that pedestrians may be crossing. Look for pedestrians and be prepared to stop, whether or not the lights are flashing.

Intersections

An intersection is any place where one line of traffic meets another. Intersections include cross streets, side streets, alleys, freeway entrances, and any other location where vehicles traveling on different highways or roads join each other.

At intersections without STOP or YIELD signs, slow down and be ready to stop. Yield to vehicles already in the intersection or just entering it. Also, yield to the car which arrives first or to the car on your right if it reaches the intersection at the same time as you do.
At “T” intersections without STOP or YIELD signs, yield to vehicles on the through road. They have the right-of-way.
When there are STOP signs at all corners, stop first, then follow the above rules.
When you turn left, give the right-of-way to all vehicles approaching you that are close enough to be dangerous. Also, look for motorcyclists, bicyclists, and pedestrians. On divided highways, or highways with several lanes, watch for vehicles coming in any lane you must cross. Turn left only when it is safe.
Safety suggestion: While waiting to turn left, keep your wheels pointed straight ahead until it is safe to start your turn. If your wheels are pointed to the left and a vehicle hits you from behind, you could be pushed into oncoming traffic.
Yield to traffic before entering the road again if you have parked off the road or are leaving a parking lot, etc.

Roundabouts

A roundabout is an intersection where traffic travels around a central island in a counterclockwise direction. Vehicles entering or exiting the roundabout must yield to vehicles, bicyclists, and pedestrians.

When you approach a roundabout:

Slow down as you approach the intersection.
Yield to pedestrians and bicyclists crossing the roadway.
Watch for signs and pavement markings that guide you or prohibit certain movements.
Enter the roundabout when there is a big enough gap in traffic.
Drive in a counterclockwise direction. Do not stop or pass other vehicles.
Use your turn signals when you change lanes or exit the roundabout.
If you miss your exit, continue around until you return to your exit.

Multiple and single lane roundabout

For roundabouts with multiple lanes, choose your entry or exit lane based on your destination. For example, to:

Turn right at the intersection, choose the right-hand lane and exit in the right-hand lane. (Blue car)
Go straight through the intersection, choose either lane, and exit in the lane you entered. (Red car)
Turn left, choose the left lane, and exit. (Yellow car)

On Mountain Roads

When two vehicles meet on a steep road where neither can pass, the vehicle facing downhill must yield the right of way by backing up until the vehicle going uphill can pass. The vehicle facing downhill has the greater amount of control when backing.

Traffic Signal Lights

Solid Red. A red signal light means “STOP.” You can make a right turn against a red light after you stop and yield to pedestrians, bicyclists, and vehicles that are close enough to be a hazard. Make the right turn only when it is safe. Do not turn if a “NO TURN ON RED” sign is posted.

Red Arrow- A red arrow means "STOP". Remain stopped until the green signal or green arrow appears. Do not turn against a red arrow.

Flashing Red- A flashing red signal light means "STOP." After stopping, you may proceed when it is safe. Observe the right-of-way rules.

Solid Yellow- A yellow signal light means "CAUTION." The red signal is about to appear. When you see the yellow light, stop if you can do so safely. If you can’t stop safely, enter the intersection cautiously.

Yellow Arrow- A yellow arrow means the "protected" turning time period is ending. Be prepared to obey the next signal which could be the green or red light or the red arrow.

Flashing Yellow- A flashing yellow signal light warns you to be careful. You do not need to stop for a flashing yellow light but you must slow down and be especially alert before entering the intersection.

Solid Green- A green light means "GO" but first give the right of way to any vehicle, bicyclist, or pedestrian in the intersection. If you are turning left, make the turn only if you have enough space to complete the turn before any oncoming vehicle, bicyclist, or pedestrian becomes a hazard. Do not enter the intersection if you cannot get completely across before the light turns red. If you block the intersection, you can be cited.

Green Arrow- A green arrow means "GO." You must turn in the direction the arrow is pointing after you yield to any vehicle, bicyclist, or pedestrian still in the intersection. The green arrow allows you to make a "protected" turn. This means oncoming vehicles, bicyclists, and pedestrians are stopped by a red light as long as the green arrow is lighted.

Traffic Signal Blackout If a traffic signal light is not working, proceed as if the intersection is controlled by a stop sign in all directions.

Source: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/

Laws and Rules of the Road

Pedestrian Signal Lights

Pedestrian signals show words or pictures as follows:

"Walk" or " Walking Person" lights mean it is legal to cross the street.

"Don’t Walk" or "Raised Hand" lights mean you may not start across the street.

Flashing "Don't Walk" or "Raised Hand" lights mean do not start across the street. The traffic signal is about to change. If the flashing starts after you have already started to cross, finish crossing the street as quickly as possible.

At many traffic signals, you need to push the pedestrian push button to activate the "Walk" or "Walking Person" signal. If there are no pedestrian signals, obey the traffic signal

Traffic Signs.

The shape of a sign gives you a clue about the information contained on the sign. Here are the common shapes used.

Eight-sided red STOP signs mean you must make a full stop whenever you see a STOP sign. Stop before entering a crosswalk or at a white "limit line" which is a wide white line painted on the street. If a crosswalk or limit line is not painted on the street, stop at the corner.

The three-sided red YIELD signs mean you must slow down and be ready to stop, if necessary, to let any vehicle, bicyclist, or pedestrian pass before you proceed.

Square red and white regulatory signs mean you must follow the sign’s instruction. For example, the "DO NOT ENTER" sign means do not enter a road or off ramp where the sign is posted, usually on a freeway off ramp.

The "WRONG WAY" sign may or may not be posted with the "DO NOT ENTER" sign. If you see one or both of these signs, drive to the side of the road and stop. You are going against traffic. When safe, back out or turn around and return to the road you were on. At night if you are going the wrong way, the road reflectors will shine red in your headlights.

If a sign has a red circle with a red line through it, it always means NO. The picture inside the circle shows what you cannot do. The sign may be shown with or without words.

Circular signs mean you are approaching a railroad crossing.

Five-sided signs mean you are near a school

Four-sided, diamond shaped signs warn you of specific road conditions and dangers ahead. Many warning signs are diamond-shaped. Obey all warning signs regardless of their shape.

White rectangular signs mean you must obey important rules

California Driver Handbook

Laws and Rules of the Road

Speed Limits

California has a "Basic Speed Law." This law means you may never drive faster than is safe for current conditions. For example, if you are driving 45 mph in a 55 mph speed zone during a dense fog, you could be cited for driving "too fast for conditions." You may never legally drive faster than the posted speed limit, even if you think it is safe to do so.

Regardless of the posted speed limit, your speed should depend on:

The number and speed of other vehicles on the road.
Whether the road surface is smooth, rough, graveled, wet, dry, wide, or narrow.
Bicyclists or pedestrians walking on the road’s edge.
Whether it is raining, foggy, snowing, windy, or dusty.

Maximum Speed Limit

The maximum speed limit on most California highways is 65 mph. You may drive 70 mph where posted. Unless otherwise posted, the maximum speed limit is 55 mph on two-lane undivided highways and for vehicles towing trailers.

Other speed limit signs are posted for the type of roads and traffic in each area. All speed limits are based on ideal driving conditions. Construction zones usually have reduced speed zones.

Driving faster than the posted speed limit, or than is safe for current conditions, on any road is dangerous and illegal. High speed increases your stopping distance. The faster you go, the less time you have to avoid a hazard or accident. The force of a 60 mph crash isn’t just twice as great as a 30 mph crash, it’s four times as great!

Reduced Speeds

Heavy traffic or bad weather

You must drive slower when there is heavy traffic or bad weather. However, if you block the normal and reasonable movement of traffic by driving too slowly, you may be given a ticket. If you choose to drive slower than other traffic, do not drive in the "No. 1" (fast) lane. (more information on lane choice ) Always move to the right when another driver is close behind you and wishes to drive faster.

Towing Vehicles, Buses, or Large Trucks

When you tow a vehicle or trailer, or drive a bus or three- or more-axle truck, you must drive in the right-hand lane or in a lane specially marked for slower vehicles. If no lanes are marked and there are four lanes or more in your direction, you may only drive in either of the two lanes closest to the right edge of the road.

Around children:

Within 500 feet of a school while children are outside or crossing the street, the speed limit is 25 mph, unless otherwise posted. Also, if the school ground has no fence and children are outside, never drive faster than 25 mph. Always drive more carefully near schools, playgrounds, parks, and residential areas because children may suddenly dart into the street.

Near schools, look for:

Bicyclists and pedestrians.
School safety patrols or school crossing guards and obey their directions. For the crossing guard’s safety, allow him or her to safely get to the side of the road before driving ahead.
Stopped school buses and children crossing the street. Some school buses flash yellow lights when preparing to stop and let children off the bus. The yellow flashing lights warn
you to slow down and prepare to stop. When the bus flashes red lights (located at the top front and back of the bus), you must stop from either direction until the children are safely across the street and the lights stop flashing. The law requires you to remain stopped as long as the red lights are flashing (VC §22454). If you fail to stop, you may be fined up to $1000 and your driving privilege could be suspended for one year. If the school bus is on the other side of a divided or multilane (two or more lanes in each direction) highway, you do not need to stop.

All vehicles must stop

Blind intersections

The speed limit for a blind intersection is 15 mph. An intersection is considered “blind” if there are no stop signs at any corner and you cannot see for 100 feet in either direction during the last 100 feet before crossing. Trees, bushes, buildings, or parked cars at intersections can block your view to the side. If your view is blocked, edge forward slowly until you can see.

Alleys

The speed limit in any alley is 15 mph.

Near railroad tracks:

The speed limit is 15 mph within 100 feet of a railroad crossing where you cannot see the tracks for 400 feet in both directions. You may drive faster than 15 mph if the crossing is controlled by gates, a warning signal, or a flagman.

At railroad or train crossings:

Look in both directions and listen for trains. Many crossings have multiple tracks so be ready to stop before crossing, if necessary. Cross railroad tracks only at designated
crossings and only when it is safe to do so.
Expect a train on any track at any time traveling in either direction. If you need to stop after crossing the tracks, make sure your vehicle clears the tracks before you stop.
Never stop on the railroad tracks. Remember that a train cannot stop quickly or swerve out of the way. If you are on the tracks, you risk injury or death.
Watch for vehicles that must stop before crossing train tracks. These vehicles include buses, school buses, and trucks transporting hazardous loads.
Remember that flashing red lights mean STOP! Stop at least 15 feet from the nearest track when the crossing devices are active or a person warns you a train is coming. Stop if you see a train coming or you hear the whistle, horn, or bell of an approaching train.
Do not go around or under lowered crossing gates, even if you do not see a train. Wait for the gates to rise. If the gates are not working correctly, call the railroad emergency number posted near the crossing or notify the local police or California Highway Patrol.

Near light rail vehicle crossings

The same rules apply to light rail vehicle crossings as to train crossings. Do not proceed across the tracks until you can see clearly in both directions and are sure that no other light rail vehicle or train is coming. Do not go around or under any closed gate.

NOTE: Light rail vehicles are very quiet and move more quickly than freight trains.

Near streetcars, trolleys, or buses

The passing speed limit, when safe to pass, is no more than 10 mph. This speed limit applies at a safety zone or an intersection where a streetcar, trolley, or bus is stopped and traffic is controlled by a police officer or traffic signal. A safety zone is marked by raised buttons or markers on the road and is set aside for pedestrians. You will most often see safety zones in areas where street cars or trolleys and vehicles share the roadway.

Business or residence districts

The speed limit is 25 mph, unless otherwise posted.

Near animals

If you see animals or livestock, slow down and obey the person in charge of the animals. If you see a stray animal in your path, slow down or stop, if safe to do so.

California Driver Handbook

Laws and Rules of the Road - Traffic Lanes

Line Colors

Solid yellow lines mark the center of a road used for two-way traffic.

Broken yellow lines mean you may pass if the broken line is next to your driving lane.

Two solid yellow lines mean "no passing." Never drive to the left of these lines unless you are:

Turning left at an intersection.
Turning into or out of a private road or driveway.
In a carpool lane that has a designated entrance on the left.
Instructed to drive on the other side of the road because your side is closed or blocked.

Examples of lane markings

(1) Solid yellow line: No passing when solid yellow line is on your side.
(2) Double solid lines: No vehicle may pass.
(3) Broken yellow line: May pass if movement can be made in safely.

Two sets of solid double yellow lines spaced two or more feet part are considered a barrier. Do not drive on or over this barrier or make a left turn or a U-turn across it except at designated openings. (See "B" below)

Solid white lines mark traffic lanes going in the same direction, such as one-way streets.

Broken white lines separate traffic lanes on roads with two or more lanes in the same direction.

Choosing A Lane

Traffic lanes are often referred to by number. The left or "fast" lane is called the "No. 1 Lane." The lanes to the right of the No. 1 lane are called the No. 2 lane, then the No. 3 lane. etc.

Example of numbered traffic lanes

Drive in the lane with the smoothest flow of traffic. If you can choose among three lanes, pick the middle lane for the smoothest driving. To drive faster, pass, or turn left, use the left lane. When you choose to drive slowly or enter or turn off the road, use the right lane.

If there are only two lanes in your direction, pick the right lane for the smoothest driving.

Don’t weave in and out of traffic. Stay in one lane as much as possible. Once you start through an intersection, keep going. If you start to make a turn, follow through. Last second changes may cause accidents. If you missed a turn, continue to the next intersection and work your way back to where you want to go.

Changing Lanes

Changing lanes includes:

Moving from one lane to another.
Entering the freeway from an on-ramp.
Entering the road from a curb or the shoulder.

Before changing lanes, signal, look in all your mirrors, and:

Check traffic behind and beside you.
Glance over your left or right shoulder to make sure the lane you want is clear.
Look for vehicles or motorcyclists in your blind spot.
Be sure there is enough room for your vehicle in the next lane.

Bicycle Lanes

A bicycle lane is shown by a solid white line along either side of the street, four or more feet from the curb. The white line will usually be broken near the corner and the words "BIKE LANE" will be painted in the lane. When you are making a right turn and are within 200 feet of the corner or other driveway entrance, you must enter the bike lane for the turn. Do not drive in the bike lane at any other time.

You may park in a bike lane unless a "No Parking" sign is posted.

Pedestrians are not allowed in bike lanes when sidewalks are available. Drivers of motorized bicycles should use bike lanes carefully to avoid accidents with bicyclists.

Passing Lanes

Before you pass, look ahead for road conditions and traffic that may cause other vehicles to move into your lane.

Never drive off the paved or main-traveled portion of the road or on the shoulder to pass. The edge of the main-traveled portion of the road has a painted white line on the road’s surface. Passing other vehicles at crossroads, railroad crossings, and shopping center entrances is dangerous.

Pass traffic on the left. You may pass on the right only when:

An open highway is clearly marked for two or more lanes of travel in your direction.
The driver ahead of you is turning left and you do not drive off the roadway. Never pass on the left if the driver is signaling a left turn.

When passing a bicyclist, pass on the left. If you are in a narrow traffic lane, wait until the traffic clears in the opposite lane before passing a bicyclist. Do not squeeze past the bicyclist.

Right Wrong

Carpool Lanes And Onramps

A carpool lane is a special freeway lane only for buses and/or carpools. You may use a carpool lane or onramp if your vehicle carries the minimum number of people required for the carpool lane or you drive a low-emission vehicle displaying a special DMV-issued decal. Motorcycle riders may use designated carpool lanes, unless otherwise posted.

Signs at the onramp or along the freeway tell you the minimum number of people required for the carpool and the hours the carpool requirement applies. The pavement in this lane is marked with a diamond symbol (◊) and the words "Carpool Lane." These lanes are also known as high-occupancy vehicle (HOV) lanes. Do not cross over double parallel solid lines to enter or exit any carpool lane except at designated entry or exit places.

Vehicles towing trailers are typically not allowed to use carpool lanes because they must drive more slowly and are usually restricted to the right-hand lane.

Center Left Turn Lanes

A center left turn lane is in the middle of a two-way street and is marked on both sides by two painted lines. The inner line is broken and the outer line is solid. If a street has a center left turn lane, you must use it when you turn left (VC §21460.5[c]) or start a permitted U-turn. You may only drive for 200 feet in the center left turn lane. This lane is not a regular traffic lane or a passing lane. To turn left from this lane, signal and drive completely inside the center left turn lane. Do not stop with the back of your vehicle blocking traffic. Make sure the lane is clear in both directions and then turn only when it is safe. Look for vehicles coming toward you in the same lane to start their left turn.

When turning left from a side street or driveway, signal and wait until it is safe. Then drive into the center left turn lane. Enter traffic only when it is safe.

You may drive across a center left turn lane.

Turnout Areas and Lanes

Special "turnout" areas are sometimes marked on two-lane roads. Drive into these areas to allow cars behind you to pass.

Some two-lane roads have passing lanes. If you are driving slowly on a two-lane highway or road where passing is unsafe, and five or more vehicles are following you, drive into the turnout areas or lanes to let the vehicles pass.

End-of-Lane Markings

Freeway lanes (as well as some city street lanes) which are ending, will usually be marked by large broken lines painted on the pavement. If you are driving in a lane marked with these broken lines, be prepared to exit the freeway or for the lane to end. Look for a sign that tells you to exit or merge, etc.

California Driver Handbook

Laws and Rules of the Road - TURNS

Left turns. To make a left turn, drive close to the center divider line or into the left turn lane. Begin signaling about 100 feet before the turn. Look over your left shoulder and reduce your speed. Stop behind the limit line. Look left, then right, then left again and make the turn when it is safe. When you turn left, do not turn too soon and “cut the corner” of the lane belonging to the vehicles coming towards you.

Safety suggestion: While waiting to turn left, keep your wheels pointed straight ahead until it is safe to start your turn. If your wheels are pointed to the left and a vehicle hits you from behind, you could be pushed into oncoming traffic.

Left turn against a red light on a one-way street only. Signal and stop for a red traffic light at the limit line or corner. You may turn left into a left-moving one-way street if there is no sign to prohibit the turn. Yield to pedestrians, bicyclists or other vehicles moving on their green light.

Example of a left turn.

Example of a right turn.

Right turns. To make a right turn, drive close to the right edge of the road. If there is a bike lane, drive into the bike lane no more than 200 feet before the turn. Watch for bicyclists or motorcyclists who may get between your vehicle and the curb. Begin signaling about 100 feet before the turn. Look over your right shoulder and reduce your speed. Stop behind the limit line. Look both ways and turn when it is safe. Do not turn wide. Complete your turn in the right lane.

Right turn against a red light. Signal and stop for a red traffic light at the limit line or at the corner. If there is no sign to prohibit the turn, you may turn right. Yield to pedestrians, bicyclists or other vehicles moving on their green light.

No Turn Against A Red Arrow. You may not turn right or left against a red arrow.

Examples Of Right and Left Turns

The numbers on the cars refer to the numbered sentences on these pages. Always use your turn
signals.

1. Left turn from a two-way street. Start the turn in the left lane closest to the middle of the street. Complete the turn in either lane of the cross street (shown by arrows), if safe. Use the center left turn lane if there is one. A left turn may be made from the other lane, if permitted by signs or arrows.

2. Right turn. Begin and end the turn in the lane nearest the right hand curb. Do not swing wide into another lane of traffic. Watch for bicyclists between your vehicle and the curb. Sometimes, signs or pavement markings will let you turn right from another lane (shown by * below).

3. Left turn from a two-way street into a one-way street. Start the turn from the lane closest to the middle of the street. Turn into any lane that is safely open, as shown by the arrows.

4. Left turn from a one-way street into a two-way street. Start the turn from the far left lane. Turn into either of the lanes that is safely open, as shown by the arrows.

5. Left turn from a one-way street into a one-way street. Start the turn from the far left lane. Watch for bicyclists between your vehicle and the curb because they can legally use the left turn lane for their left turns. Turn into any lane that is safely open, as shown by the arrows.

6. Right turn from a one-way street into a one-way street. Start the turn in the far right lane. If safe, you may end the turn in any lane. Sometimes, signs or pavement markings will let you turn right from another lane (shown by *)

7. Turn at a "T" intersection from a one-way street into a two-way street. Through traffic has the right of way. You may turn either right or left from the center lane. Watch for vehicles and bicyclists inside your turn.

Legal U-Turns

A U-turn is turning around in the street to go back the way you came. To make a U-turn, signal and use the far left lane or the center left turn lane. You may make a U-turn:

Across a double yellow line when it is safe and legal.
In a residential district:
- if no vehicle approaching you is closer than 200 feet.
- whenever a traffic sign or signal protects you from approaching vehicles.
At an intersection on a green light or green arrow unless a "No U-turn" sign is posted.
On a divided highway only if an opening is provided in the center divider.

Illegal U-Turns

Never make a U-turn:

On a divided highway by crossing a dividing section, curb, strip of land, or two sets of double lines.
Where you cannot clearly see 200 feet in each direction because of a curve, hill, rain, fog, or other reason.
Where a "No U-Turn" sign is posted.
When other vehicles may hit you.
On a one-way street.
In front of a fire station. Never use a fire station driveway to turn around.
In business districts. Areas with churches, apartments, multiple dwelling houses, clubs, and public buildings (except schools) are also considered to be business districts. Turn only at an intersection or where openings are provided for turns.

California Driver Handbook

Laws and Rules of the Road - PARKING

Parking On A Hill

When you park:

On a sloping driveway, turn the wheels so the car will not roll into the street if the brakes fail.
Headed downhill, turn your front wheels into the curb or toward the side of the road. Set the parking brake.
Headed uphill, turn your front wheels away from the curb and let your vehicle roll back a few inches. The back of the front wheel should gently touch the curb. Set the parking brake.
Headed either uphill or downhill and there is no curb, turn the wheels so the car will roll away from the center of the road if the brakes fail.

Always set your parking brake and leave the vehicle in gear or the "park" position.

Parking At Colored Curbs

Painted colored curbs have the following special parking rules:

White: Stop only long enough to pick up or drop off passengers or mail.

Green: Park for a limited time. Look for a sign next to the green zone or for the time painted on the curb.

Yellow: Stop no longer than the time posted to load or unload passengers or freight. Drivers of noncommercial vehicles are usually required to stay with the vehicle.

Red: No stopping, standing, or parking. (Buses may stop at a red zone marked for buses.)

Blue: Parking is permitted only for a disabled person who displays a placard or disabled person or disabled veteran license plates. Disabled people with a placard or special plates may park in special areas for unlimited periods of time, regardless of time restrictions. No one else may park there. Qualified persons may apply at any DMV office for a parking placard or special plates.

An identification card will be issued to holders of disabled person or disabled veteran license plates.

NOTE: Placard abuse results in loss of special parking privileges. It is also a misdemeanor and is punishable by a fine of up to $1000, imprisonment in county jail for up to six months, or both.

Illegal Parking

Never park or leave your vehicle:

Where a "No Parking" sign is posted.
On a marked or unmarked crosswalk, on a sidewalk, or in front of a driveway.
Within three feet of a sidewalk ramp for disabled persons or in front of or on a curb which provides wheelchair access to a sidewalk.
In a disabled person parking space unless you are disabled and display a placard or special plates.
In the space next to a disabled person parking space if it is painted in a crosshatched pattern. (VC §22507.8)
In a space designated for parking or fueling zero-emission vehicles which display an identifying decal.
In a tunnel or on a bridge, except where permitted by signs.
Within 15 feet of a fire hydrant or a fire station driveway.
On or within 71/2 feet of a railroad track.
Between a safety zone and the curb.
"Double parked." (Parking in the street when all legal parking places at the curb are taken.)
On the wrong side of the street.
At a red curb.
On a freeway, except:
- in an emergency or
- when an officer or device requires a stop or
- where a stop is specifically permitted. A vehicle (even if disabled) that is stopped, parked, or left standing on a freeway for more than four hours may be removed. (VC §22651[f])

NOTE: If you must stop on a highway, park completely off the pavement and stay in your vehicle with the doors locked until help arrives. Leave enough space for other vehicles to pass freely. Your car should be visible at least 200 feet in each direction.

Example of crosshatched pattern

Special Parking Rules

When you park alongside a curb, the front and back wheels must be parallel and within 18 inches of the curb. Park parallel to the street if there is no curb.
Never leave your car until you have stopped the engine and set the parking brake.
Do not open the driver’s side doors unless it is safe and you do not interfere with traffic. Look for passing bicyclists and motorcyclists. Do not leave the door open any longer than necessary

California Driver Handbook

Laws and Rules of the Road -

SIGNALING

Always signal to other drivers when you plan to turn left, right, slow down, or stop. Signals may be given by hand-and-arm positions or by using the vehicles signal lights. If bright sunlight makes the signal lights hard to see, use hand-and-arm signals also.

LEFT TURN

RIGHT TURN

SLOW OR STOP

Motorcyclists often use hand signals to make themselves more visible. Bicyclists may give right turn signals with their right arm held straight out, pointing right.

Always signal:

Your left or right turn during the last 100 feet before reaching the turning point. Caution— Even though you signal, do not automatically assume that the space you wish to occupy is clear.
Before every lane change. Also, look over your shoulder and check your blind spot before changing lanes.
At least five seconds before you change lanes at freeway speeds.
To let other drivers know your plans.
Before pulling next to or away from the curb.
When you change directions.
Even when you don’t see other vehicles around. A vehicle you don’t see might hit you.

If you plan to turn beyond an intersection, start signaling when you are in the intersection. If you signal too early, the other driver may think you plan to turn into the intersection and he/she may pull out in front of you.

Remember to cancel your signal after turning if it doesn’t turn off by itself.

ADDITIONAL DRIVING RULES

Things you must not do:

Do not drive a vehicle so loaded, either with property or people, that you cannot control it, see ahead, or to the sides of your vehicle.
Do not carry anything in or on a passenger vehicle which extends beyond the fenders on the left side or more than six inches beyond the fenders on the right side. A load extending more than four feet from the back of the vehicle must display a 12-inch red or fluorescent orange square flag or two red lights at night.
Do not allow anyone to ride on any part of your vehicle not intended for passengers.
Do not allow anyone to ride in the trunk of your vehicle. Convictions will result in penalties for both the driver and the person(s) riding in the trunk.
Do not allow a person to ride in the back of a pickup or other truck unless the vehicle is equipped with seats and the person uses both the seat and a safety belt.
Do not transport animals in the back of a pickup or other truck unless the animal is properly secured.
Do not dump or abandon animals on a highway. This crime punishable by a fine of up to $1000, six months in jail, or both.
Do not tow anyone who is riding a bicycle, in a wagon, on roller skates, on a sled, on skis, or on a toy vehicle.
Do not litter the roadside. The fine is $1000 and you may be forced to pick up what you threw away. Littering convictions show on your driving record.
Do not wear a headset over, or earplugs in, both your ears.
Do not wear eyeglasses with temples wide enough to keep you from seeing clearly to the sides.
Do not drive a vehicle equipped with a video monitor if the monitor is visible to the driver and displays anything other than vehicle information or global mapping displays.
Do not honk your horn unless it is a safety warning.
Do not throw any cigarette, cigar, or other flaming or glowing substance from your vehicle.
Do not shoot firearms on a highway or at traffic signs.
Do not block your view by putting signs or other objects on the front windshield or the back and side windows. Do not hang objects on the mirror. Windshield/window stickers, etc., are permitted in these locations only:
- A seven-inch square on either the passenger’s side windshield, lower corner; or the rear window, lower corner.
- A five-inch square on the driver’s side, lower corner.
- Side windows behind the driver.
Do not drive any motor vehicle into a designated wilderness area. (VC §38301.5)
Do not drive with tinted safety glass. If you have sun-sensitive skin, you may use removable sun screens during daylight travel if you have a letter from your physician.
Do not block or hinder a funeral procession. Vehicles taking part in a funeral procession have the right of way and if you interfere, obstruct, or interrupt the funeral procession, you are subject to a citation. (VC §2817) The funeral procession is led by a traffic officer and all vehicles taking part in the procession have windshield markers to identify them.
Do not ride, or allow a child to ride, a “pocket bike” on a public street or highway. These vehicles are not manufactured or designed for highway use and they do not meet federal safety standards.

Things you must do:

You must drive as far to the right as reasonably possible on narrow mountain roads, and if you cannot see at least 200 feet ahead, honk your horn.
You must use your headlights 30 minutes after sunset and leave them on until 30 minutes before sunrise.
You must dim your lights to low beams within 500 feet of a vehicle coming toward you or within 300 feet of a vehicle you are following.
You must turn on your headlights if snow, rain, fog, or low-visibility (1000 feet or less) require the use of windshield wipers.
You must move your vehicle out of the traffic lane (unless it is disabled) when it is safe to do so, if you are involved in an accident. Law enforcement may tow or impound your vehicle if it is left in an unsafe area and causes safety concerns.

SIGNS

2007-11-28T18:50:00.000-08:00

EQUIPMENT FOR SAFE DRIVING

2007-11-28T04:43:00.000-08:00

Motorists can be safe drivers only when their vehicles are properly equipped and in good working order. No one can legally drive any vehicle that may be a hazard to any person or property.

Required Equipment

Your motor vehicle must have the following working equipment:

BRAKES: Your vehicle must have two brake systems and brakes on all wheels. The foot brake must be strong enough to stop a vehicle traveling at a speed of 20 mph in 30 feet The emergency or parking brake must be strong enough to stop the vehicle in 55 feet at the same speed. The emergency brake also must be able to hold the vehicle on a grade or hill.

Some vehicles have special rules. Motor-driven cycles only need one brake. Vehicles with three or more axles may have a front axle with brakes. Antique vehicles more than 25 years old must keep the same type of brakes originally installed; however, when they are driven on a highway, they must have brakes on at least two wheels.
LIGHTS: Lights required on motor vehicles are:
- Headlights: Motor vehicles must have two headlights. Headlights must be lighted from sunset to sunrise. State law also requires headlights to be used in times when rain, snow, fog or other atmospheric conditions require the use of windshield wipers. They should also be used when objects 1,000 feet away cannot be seen. Bright lights must be dimmed 500 feet before meeting an oncoming vehicle or 300 feet before passing a vehicle. Motorcycles and mopeds require only one head light, which must show objects 500 feet ahead. A motorcycle headlight must be lighted whenever the vehicle is driven.
- Taillights: All vehicles require two red lights visible for 500 feet from behind. Only one taillight is needed for mopeds and motorcycles.
- Turn Signals: Vehicles, except motorcycles, trailers and semitrailers, must have right and left turn signals on the front and rear. Signals must be seen from 300 feet.
- Stop Lights: Vehicles must have at least one red or amber stop light visible for 500 feet from behind in normal sunlight.
- License Plate Light: Vehicles must have a white light making the license plate readable from 50 feet away. The light must be on whenever headlights are lighted.
- Parking Lights: Front and rear parking lights are required for any vehicle stopped on a highway at night. Some local communities may allow unlighted night parking on streets.
SAFETY BELTS: Passenger cars must have two sets of safety belts in the front seat. Without these belts, 1965 or later models may not be sold in Illinois. Also, 1965 or later models licensed in Illinois may not be driven without safety belts.
MIRRORS: You must have one rearview mirror so you are able to see at least 200 feet behind your car.
WINDOWS: All window glass must be approved safety glass. The windshield must be free of snow, ice, moisture and any defects that can distort vision. All glass also must be free of obstructions between the driver and front or rear windows. Vehicles are not allowed to have tinted windows on the front windshield or front side windows, unless the driver has a medical exception certified by a physician licensed to practice medicine in Illinois. A 6-inch strip of tinting is allowed along the entire length at the top of the front windshield.
WIPERS: Wipers must operate properly to clear the windshield of ice, snow and moisture.
HORN: You must have a horn that can be heard from a distance of 200 feet. Sirens, whistles and bells are allowed only on authorized emergency vehicles.
MUFFLER: A muffler must be on the exhaust system to prevent excessive noise and smoke. This also includes turbine wheels used in the exhaust system of a diesel engine. Cutouts, bypasses and changes to the system to increase noise are illegal.
BUMPERS: Vehicles weighing 9,000 lbs. or less and all recreational vehicles must have a front and rear bumper. It is illegal to alter the suspension system of a vehicle to lift the body from the chassis frame in excess of three inches. Also, a driver must not cause the horizontal line from the front to the rear to vary over 3 inches.

Restricted Equipment

Your motor vehicle may not have the following equipment:

PROJECTING LOADS: Loads extending 4 feet or more to the rear of a vehicle must be marked with a red flag during the day. At night or when visibility is poor, the vehicle must have a red light visible for 500 feet.
LIGHTS: Certain lights have restrictions.
- Back-up Lights: Vehicles may have one or more backup lights. However, they may not be lighted when the vehicle is moving forward.
- Spotlights: Only one spotlight is allowed. When approaching another vehicle, it must be directed neither to the left nor more than 100 feet ahead. Your vehicle may not have more than four 300 candlepower lights burning.
- Flashing or Moving Lights: Flashing or moving lights other than turn signals or hazard indicators are prohibited. This does not apply to police or emergency vehicles.
- Red Lights: Red lights visible from the front are prohibited. This does not apply to police or emergency vehicles.
- Running Board Lights: These are limited to one on each side, which must be nonglare white or amber lights.
- Cowl or Fender Lamps: Only two lights are allowed, which must be nonglare, white or amber lights.
STUDDED TIRES: Pneumatic tires with metal studs are unlawful except for:
- vehicles used by mail carriers in rural areas between November 15 and April 1.
- vehicles displaying disabled plates or disabled veteran plates between November 15 and April 1. These owners must live on a county or township road in an unincorporated area.
- agricultural tractors or traction engines.
- agricultural machinery, including wagons, being used for agricultural towing purposes.
- road-building machinery operated at a speed of less than 10 mph.
TELEVISIONS: No motor vehicle may have a television set that can be seen from the driver’s seat.
ANTIQUES: Special rules for lamps, brakes, stop lights and turn signals apply to vehicles more than 25 years old. For more information, contact the Secretary of State’s office at 800-252-8980.
RADAR DETECTORS: Possession and use of radar detection and/or radar jamming devices is prohibited in commercial vehicles.

Source: http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com

SAFE DRIVING TIPS

2007-11-28T04:22:00.000-08:00

Driving is a privilege and a responsibility. A driver must obey all traffic laws and be prepared to react to other drivers and driving conditions.

Aggressive Driving

Aggressive driving is the operation of a motor vehicle in a manner that endangers or is likely to endanger persons or property. Persons doing any of the following may be committing acts of aggressive driving.

Speeding
Running red lights and stop signs
Tailgating
Passing on the shoulder of the road
Cutting off another vehicle
Slamming on brakes in front of a tailgater
Improper hand or facial gestures at other drivers
Yelling
Repeatedly honking the horn
Repeatedly flashing of headlights

Aggressive driving is a serious problem that is responsible for many traffic accidents and fatalities. It is to your benefit to avoid aggressive drivers and potentially dangerous situations. If you encounter an angry or aggressive motorist:

Do not retaliate or in any way engage the other driver. Get out of the way.
Do not make eye contact.
Keep your doors locked and your windows up.
Keep enough space between you and the vehicle in front of you to pull out from behind.
Do not underestimate the other driver’s potential for aggression.

Anyone can become an aggressive driver. Do not let stress and frustration get the best of you while driving.

Be patient and courteous.
Do not drive when angry, overtired or upset.
Allow extra time to get to your destination.
When possible, change your schedule to avoid congestion.
Listen to relaxing music or books on tape.
Give other drivers the benefit of the doubt - all drivers make mistakes.
Avoid all conflict, even if you are right.

Alert Driving

A driver must concentrate on the road and drive defensively.

CONCENTRATION: Operating a vehicle safely demands that the driver concentrate on driving. The person should be rested, calm and not under the influence of alcohol or other drugs. One of the greatest hazards of roadway driving is drowsiness or "highway hypnosis". Lack of sleep or fatigue affects your ability to safely drive your vehicle. When taking a long trip, avoid drowsiness by stopping frequently to drink coffee, exercise or nap. Exercise your eyes by reading road signs or shifting the focus of your eyes to different parts of the roadway. Make sure you are properly rested.

DEFENSIVE DRIVING: Plan ahead for the unexpected. Always be prepared to react to the other driver. Do not expect the other driver to do what you think he or she should do. Do not think you know what he or she is going to do. If you cannot avoid a crash, remain calm and try to choose the least dangerous situation. For example, running into a ditch is less dangerous than a head-on collision. Also, your chances of survival are greater if your vehicle is in good mechanical condition.

Vehicle Following Distances

TWO-SECOND RULE: Following a vehicle too closely is called "tailgating". Use the two-second rule to determine a safe following distance. Select a fixed object on the road ahead such as a sign, tree or overpass. When the vehicle ahead of you passes the object, count "one-thousand-one, one-thousand-two". You should not reach the object before you count to one-thousand-two. If you do, you are following too closely. Most rear-end collisions are caused by the vehicle in back following too closely.

The two-second rule also applies to your speed when you are on a good road and during good weather conditions. If the road and/or weather conditions are not good, increase your distance to a four- or five-second count. If you are being tailgated, move to another lane or slowly pull off the road and allow the vehicle to pass.

Two-Second Rule
Vehicle Speed	Approximate Feet Vehicle will Travel in 1 Second	2 Second Rule Distance
25 mph	37 feet	74 feet back
35 mph	52 feet	104 feet back
45 mph	66 feet	132 feet back
55 mph	81 feet	162 feet back

Vehicle Speed

MINIMUM AND MAXIMUM SPEEDS: Driving too fast or too slowly may create a dangerous situation. Regardless of the posted speed limit, weather and traffic conditions may make it necessary to drive more slowly. However, driving too slowly also can be dangerous. Your speed should be adjusted for the conditions and match the flow of traffic, as long as it does not surpass the maximum posted speed.

STOPPING: The ability to stop your car safely should be considered when deciding your speed. Consider the following:

How quickly you can react physically and mentally.
The type and condition of the roadway. It will be more difficult and take longer to stop on wet asphalt.
The kind of tires you are using and the condition of the tread. Large, wide tires with good tread will stop a vehicle faster than small, narrow tires with little tread.
The type, condition and adjustment of your brakes.
The direction and speed of the wind. A strong tail wind can make it very difficult to stop.
Vehicle design, weight distribution, suspension and shock absorbers.

Vehicles and Trains

Crashes involving vehicles and trains can be prevented. Approaching and crossing railroad tracks require drivers to take extreme caution. Following are important laws and safety tips:

WARNING SIGNS: Railroad crossings are marked with one or more of the following signs:

A round railroad advance warning sign means a crossing is ahead. In rural areas, this sign is posted 750 feet before the tracks. It warns you to look, listen and slow down.
In front of the railroad crossing, the pavement is marked with a large X and two R’s. A solid yellow line means you may not pass another vehicle as you near the tracks.
Crossbuck signs are posted at most tracks. The sign will indicate if there is more than one track.
Flashing lights always mean a train is near. Always stop when the lights begin to flash.
Some crossings also have gates. Always stop when the gates begin to lower. It is against the law to drive through, around or under these gates.

DRIVE CAREFULLY: When crossing a railroad track, be especially careful! Drive as though you expect a train on any track at any time.

SECOND TRAINS: More than one train may be on the tracks. After one train has passed, always look for a second train on another track before proceeding.

NEVER GET TRAPPED: Sometimes you may be moving with a stream of vehicles across a railroad track. Check carefully to make sure there is enough room for your vehicle on the other side of the track. If there is not enough room, do not cross the tracks.

NEVER SHIFT GEARS: If your vehicle has a manual transmission, shift down before reaching the tracks. To avoid stalling, you should not change gears while crossing the track.

NEVER RACE A TRAIN: Trying to race a train may cost you your life and those of your passengers. DO NOT race a train to a crossing.

SOME VEHICLES MUST STOP: Some vehicles must stop at railroad crossings. These include commercial vehicles carrying people for hire, school buses and vehicles carrying hazardous material. Be prepared to stop when you are behind these vehicles.

Remember, crashes involving trains and vehicles are usually caused by carelessness. Always stop, look and listen for trains. Extra safety may save your life.

Weather Conditions

Weather can create a driving hazard. Special care must be taken in fog, rain, high winds and winter driving conditions.

FOG: It is best not to drive in fog. However, if you must drive in fog, take the following precautions:

Slow down. If you see headlights or taillights, slow down even more. A driver may be driving in the center of the roadway or may be stopped or barely moving.
Drive with your headlights set on dim, or use foglights..
Do not overdrive your headlights. Stay within the limits of your vision. You may have to stop suddenly. If the fog is too dense, pull off the roadway and stop. Do not drive at 5-10 mph.
Use your turn signal long before you turn, and brake early when you approach a stop to warn other drivers.

RAIN: When rain begins to fall lightly, water, dust, oil and leaves cause the roadway to become slippery. When this happens, increase your following distance. Take special care on curves and turns and while braking. Your headlights must be on when operating your wipers. Parking lights are not acceptable.

When rain begins to fall heavily, your tires may "hydroplane". This means the tires are riding on a layer of water and not on the roadway. Avoid hydroplaning by slowing down. If you skid while hydroplaning, try to regain control of the vehicle. Otherwise, release the accelerator and ride out the skid.

HIGH WINDS: Wind can be a difficult problem for all drivers. Wind is especially difficult for drivers of trucks, recreational vehicles, campers and trailers-in-tow. In high winds, reduce your speed and make steering corrections when you go from a protected area to an open area and when meeting large vehicles such as trucks and buses. Heavy rain or sleet often accompanies high winds. Be alert to wet or slippery areas and plan for those conditions. In high winds, the Illinois Tollway System bans the hauling of house trailers.

WINTER DRIVING: Winter is the most difficult driving season due to many reasons, including ice, snow, lower temperatures and fewer daylight hours.

Drive slower and increase your following distance. Roadway conditions may vary depending upon the sun, shade or roadway surface.
Remove all snow and ice from your vehicle. Clear all windows, and do not start driving until your windshield is defrosted and clear. Be sure you have non-freezing windshield washer liquid and that your headlights and taillights are visible.
Be sure your vehicle is maintained properly. Lights, brakes, windshield wipers, defrosters, radiator and other parts should be in good working order.
Use snow tires and/or chains (where allowed). Snow tires give you extra traction, and chains increase safety on snow or icepacked roads. Neither tires nor chains allow you to drive on bad roads at normal speeds.
Start slowly. Gentle braking in slow, steady strokes helps you find out how much traction you have. Begin braking early when you come to an intersection or a stop.
Approach bridges, shaded spots, overpasses and turns slowly. They may remain icy after the rest of the roadway is clear and dry.
Plan ahead for winter driving. Carry a blanket, food and other survival equipment, such as a shovel, in your vehicle in case you become stranded. If you become stranded, remain in your vehicle. Run your engine only for brief times, and open your window to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning. Make sure your vehicle tailpipe is free of snow and debris.

Equipment Failure

Crashes often happen when equipment fails. Your most important aid is remaining calm. Equipment failures may include:

BLOWOUTS: A thumping sound may be a warning of a blowout. If this happens, ease your foot off the gas pedal and keep a firm grasp on the steering wheel. Do not brake suddenly. Pull safely off the roadway and check your tires.

LOSS OF A WHEEL: React as you would with a blowout. Ease off the gas pedal and pull off the roadway.

STEERING FAILURE: If you suddenly have no control of the steering wheel, ease your foot off the gas pedal. Turn on your emergency flashers and allow your vehicle to come to a slow stop. Brake very gently to prevent your vehicle from spinning.

BRAKE FAILURE: If your brake pedal suddenly sinks to the floor, pump it to build pressure. If that does not work, use your emergency or parking brake. To slow down, shift your vehicle into a lower gear.

HEADLIGHT FAILURE: If your headlights fail suddenly, try your emergency flashers, parking lights and/or turn signals. Pull off the road. If your lights begin to dim, drive to a service station or pull off the road and seek help.

STUCK GAS PEDAL: If the gas pedal becomes stuck, hook your toe under it to free it. If it does not become free, shift your vehicle into neutral and brake gently to slow down. If you have power steering or a locking steering wheel, do not turn off the ignition, you will lose either your power steering or your ability to steer.

BLOCKED VISION: If for any reason your vision becomes blocked, roll down the side window to see. Turn on your emergency flashers and then pull your vehicle off the road.

Special Driving Situations

Just as weather and equipment affect your safety, other driving situations also require extra caution.

EXPRESSWAY DRIVING: Expressways, toll roads, turnpikes and freeways are fast, multiple-lane roads. The maximum speed limit is 55 or 65 mph. Following are some tips for safe driving on expressways:

Getting on expressways: When entering an expressway, you will usually find a speed-change lane. This lane allows you to gain the speed necessary before merging. You should signal and look for an opening in the traffic, match traffic speed and merge with traffic when safe.
Getting off expressways: Exits may be on the right or left. Be sure to be in the correct exit and speed-change lanes. Signal your intent, then slow down to make your exit in the speed-change lane.

Driving on expressways: Be especially alert when driving on expressways. Speed and traffic volume are major concerns:

Check your rearview and side mirrors before changing lanes.
Use your turn signals when making lane changes.
Go to the next exit if you missed yours. Backing up on expressways is against the law.
Do not follow too closely. Allow plenty of distance between you and the car ahead.
The right lane is for slower traffic. The left lane is used for faster traffic and for passing.
Do not stop on the expressway. Pull off the road if you have a problem. Lift your car's hood and turn on your hazard flashers. Do not walk along the expressway.

NIGHT DRIVING: Night driving is difficult because things may appear differently than in daylight. Also, glare from lights may interfere with vision. Courtesy and common sense should be used when driving at night.

Never overdrive your headlights. Always keep them clean and aimed properly. Use them at dusk and dawn. Bright lights must be dimmed 500 feet before meeting an oncoming vehicle or 300 feet before passing a vehicle.
If street lights cause a lot of glare, dim your dashboard lights and use your sun visor. Avoid using any other light inside your vehicle.
Roadway signs are more difficult to see at night.
Use edge lines and center lines of the roadway as guides.
Do not stop on the roadway. If you must stop, carry and use a red warning light.

RURAL INTERSECTIONS: Depending on the time of the year, it may be difficult to see other drivers. Some rural intersections may be marked with warning signs (stop, yield, etc.), while others may not. When approaching any rural intersection, slow down and look both ways before entering the intersection. Be safe and enter all rural intersections with caution.

CURVES: Slow down before beginning the curve. Do not brake suddenly as this may cause skidding or locked wheels. Never drive over the center line.

HEAD-ON APPROACHES: When a vehicle is approaching head-on in your lane, slow down immediately. Pull over to the right and sound your horn.

SKIDDING: Skidding occurs when tires lose traction. If you skid, ease off the gas pedal or brakes. Steer into the direction of the skid until you feel you have regained traction and then straighten your vehicle.

DRIVING OFF THE PAVEMENT: If your wheels drift off the pavement onto the shoulder, grip the wheel firmly, ease your foot off the gas pedal and brake gently. After checking for traffic behind you, gently steer back onto the pavement. Do not jerk your wheel to correct your steering. This may cause you to drive into oncoming traffic.

FIRE: If smoke appears, pull off the road. Turn off the engine, move away from the vehicle and call the fire department. Vehicle fires can be very dangerous. Do not fight the fire yourself.

WATER ACCIDENTS: If your vehicle runs off the roadway into water but does not sink right away, try to escape through a window. Because of differences in water pressure, you may not be able to open your car door. If your vehicle does sink, move to the back seat area where an air pocket usually forms. Take a deep breath and exit from a rear window.

CELLULAR PHONE USAGE: When using your cellular phone while driving, always remember your number one responsibility is driving. Persons under age 18 are prohibited from using a cell phone while driving except in an emergency. If you do use a cellular phone, take the following precautions:

Always assess traffic conditions before calling.
Be familiar with the phone's keypad - use speed dial if possible.
Place calls when stopped, or have a passenger dial.
Make sure phone is within easy reach.
Use speaker phone/hands-free device.
Avoid intense, emotional or complicated conversations.
Avoid talking on phone in congested traffic or bad weather.
Pull off road to dial or complete a conversation.

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Carbon monoxide is a deadly poison. Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning are weariness, yawning, dizziness, nausea, headache and ringing in the ears. You can prevent carbon monoxide poisoning by having the exhaust system checked regularly. Also, leave the window partially open when starting the engine, while driving the vehicle or when running the engine while parked. Never run the engine in your garage.

Electricity

If you are in a crash that results in power lines falling on your vehicle, the danger of electrical shock exists. You should remain in your vehicle until help arrives. However, if fire is an immediate danger, you must jump clear of the vehicle. Do not allow any part of your body to touch the vehicle and the ground at the same time.

Explosive Fire Hazard

Always shut off your vehicle’s engine when refueling. Never smoke around gas pumps. For safety purposes, remain with the pump while refueling and avoid returning to vehicle during the pumping process.

Being Pulled Over by Law Enforcement

Slow down and pull over safely as soon as possible. If the police vehicle is unmarked and you cannot identify the driver as a police officer, drive slowly and carefully below the speed limit to a well-lit, populated spot and pull over, or go to the nearest police station, attempt to attract the attention of a uniformed officer or call 911.
Stay in the driver’s seat with both hands clearly in sight on the steering wheel until the officer instructs you otherwise or the traffic stop is complete. Do not exit your vehicle unless asked to do so. Getting out of your car can be perceived as aggressive behavior and a threat to the officer’s safety. Turn on your interior light if stopped at night.
Comply with the officer’s request to see your driver’s license and proof of insurance. If these items are in the glove box or under the seat, inform the officer of that fact and then follow his/her directions before retrieving them.
If you are issued a ticket requiring a signature, sign it. Signing a ticket is not an admission of guilt—only an acknowledgment of receiving the ticket.
If you are suspected of drunk driving, cooperate with the officer(s) on the scene. If you refuse to submit to breath, blood or performance tests, your refusal could result in loss of driving privileges.
Get out of the automobile only if asked to do so.
Be aware that you may have committed some minor traffic violation without realizing it, there may be some problem with your vehicle of which you are unaware, or you might be driving a vehicle that is similar to one used in a serious crime. Many officers will not provide specific reasons for the stop until they have your license and insurance card in hand. Therefore, they will avoid having to debate the reason for the stop before they receive these items from you.
If you wish to offer an explanation of your circumstances when stopped, do so before the officer returns to his vehicle. The officer cannot void the ticket once it has been written. Cooperate during the incident even if you believe you haven’t committed an offense. If you believe you have been treated unfairly, present your case in traffic court and not to the officer along the roadway.
You are to be treated with dignity and respect by the officer. If you believe that an officer has acted inappropriately during a traffic stop or other encounter, you should report that conduct as soon as possible to the officer’s superiors.
Officers are required to provide their names and badge number upon request.

Source: http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com

SHARING THE ROAD

2007-11-28T04:06:00.000-08:00

Drivers of cars and trucks share the road with others. You must know the laws that apply to other roadway users, including: police/emergency vehicles, trucks, pedestrians, bicyclists, motorcyclists, moped operators, snowmobiles, slow-moving vehicles, horseback riders and children.

Police/Emergency Vehicles

All motorists must yield the right-of-way and immediately drive to a position parallel to, and as close as possible to, the right-hand edge or curb of the roadway clear of any intersection. Stop and remain in such position until the authorized emergency vehicle has passed, unless otherwise directed by a police officer.

Upon approaching a stationary emergency vehicle, a driver should, when safe to do so, move into a lane not adjacent to the emergency vehicle, reduce speed and proceed with caution.

Construction Workers

Upon approaching a construction zone, drivers are required to reduce speed to the posted limit. Where possible, drivers also must move into a lane not adjacent to workers. Failure to reduce speed or change lanes that results in an accident subjects the driver to a maximum fine of $10,000 and the loss of driving privileges for 90 days to two years. Drivers who recklessly drive through a construction zone and cause the death of another person may be jailed for three to 28 years. The minimum fine for speeding in a construction zone is $375. Repeat offenders are fined $1,000. Drivers ticketed twice in two years for speeding in a construction zone will lose their driving privileges for 90 days.

Pedestrians

Without a vehicle or protective equipment, pedestrians are most at risk in traffic. Drivers and pedestrians are both responsible for traffic safety. A simple rule is that drivers should always be prepared to yield the right-of way to pedestrians.

TRAFFIC SIGNALS, WALKLIGHTS and CROSSINGS: Pedestrians must yield the right-of-way to drivers by obeying traffic signals, observing walk lights and using crosswalks.

–WALK (constantly lighted): Pedestrians facing the signal may cross the roadway in the direction of the signal.

–DON’T WALK (flashing): Pedestrians may not start entering the roadway. A pedestrian who has partly completed crossing during the constantly lighted WALK may continue to a sidewalk or safety island.

–DON’T WALK (constantly lighted): Pedestrians may not enter the roadway.

–YELLOW LIGHT (constant): Pedestrians may not cross unless directed by a pedestrian control sign or police officer.

CROSSING A ROAD: When crossing at any place other than a marked or unmarked crosswalk, pedestrians must give the right-of-way to drivers. This includes between closely-spaced intersections where traffic signals are in operation.
TUNNELS and PEDESTRIAN CROSSINGS: A pedestrian tunnel or pedestrian crossing bridge should be used when available.
ROADWAYS: Pedestrians must not walk on a roadway unless there is no sidewalk or shoulder next to it. Under these conditions, pedestrians should always walk as close to the outside edge of the road as possible. In two-way traffic, pedestrians should walk facing oncoming traffic.

If a highway does not have a sidewalk but has a shoulder, pedestrians should always walk on the shoulder as far from the roadway as possible. Pedestrians should not walk on a highway when under the influence of alcohol or other drugs.

HITCHHIKING: Hitchhiking is standing on the roadway to ask for a ride. It is illegal to hitchhike. If convicted, a pedestrian may be fined up to $2,500 and given a jail sentence of up to one year.
SOLICITING: Soliciting means to ask for something. Pedestrians should not stand on or next to a highway to ask drivers or passengers for the following:

–employment or business

–contributions, unless allowed by a permit issued by a city or town.

–money for guarding or watching any vehicle while parked or about to be parked.

If convicted, the pedestrian may be fined up to $2,500 and given a jail sentence of up to one year.

JOGGERS and WALKERS: Joggers and walkers should use jogging paths when provided. On public roads, joggers should try to select wide roads with good shoulders. They should face oncoming traffic and remember to look and listen for cars. At night or anytime visibility is poor, joggers and walkers should be in well-lighted areas and wear reflective clothing.
MOVING VEHICLES: Pedestrians must not run or walk into the path of a moving vehicle.
EMERGENCY VEHICLES: Pedestrians should always yield to emergency and police vehicles using sirens and or flashing lights.
GATES and BARRIERS: Pedestrians must always obey railroad and bridge gates and other barriers.

Bicyclists

On most roadways, bicyclists have the same rights and responsibilities as other roadway users. Bicyclists are prohibited on limited-access highways, expressways and certain other marked roadways. Following are laws and safety tips you should know:

Bicyclists are required to travel in the same direction as vehicles.
Bicyclists should travel just to the right of faster moving traffic. However, certain hazards, such as rough surfaces, debris, drainage grates or a narrow traffic lane, may require bike riders to move toward the center of the lane.
Drivers must yield the right-of-way to a bicyclist just as they would to another vehicle.
When passing a bicyclist do so slowly and leave at least 3 feet of passing space.
A motorist should not park or drive in marked bike lanes.
When following bicyclists, give them plenty of room and be prepared to stop quickly. Use extra caution during rainy and icy weather. At night do not use high beams when you see an oncoming bicycle rider.
After parking and before opening vehicle doors, a motorist should first check for bicyclists.
When a motorist is turning left and there is a bicyclist entering the intersection from the opposite direction, the driver should wait for the bicyclist to pass before making the turn. Also, if a motorist is sharing the left turn lane with a bicyclist, stay behind them until they have safely completed their turn.
If a motorist is turning right and a bicyclist is approaching on the right, let the bicyclist go through the intersection first before making a right turn. Remember to always signal your turns.

Motorcyclists

Motorcycle riders have the same rights and responsibilities as other roadway users. There is an increasing number of motorcycle riders on our roadways. Because of size and vulnerability in a crash, it is important to pay special attention to motorcycles.

INTERSECTIONS: More than 50 percent of all motorcycle collisions occur at intersections. The most common situation occurs when an oncoming automobile makes a left turn in front of a motorcycle. Watch for motorcycles before turning and yield the right-of-way. Be particularly careful when making a left turn across lanes of oncoming traffic. Always use your signals and look in all directions before making the turn. Don’t be fooled by a flashing turn signal on a motorcycle — motorcycle signals usually are not self-cancelling and riders sometimes forget to turn them off. Wait to be sure the motorcycle is going to turn before you proceed.
VISIBILITY: The failure of motorists to detect and recognize motorcycles in traffic is the most common cause of motorcycle collisions. Include motorcycles in your visual search pattern. Due to their small size, motorcycles may be difficult to see, and motorists tend to underestimate their speed. Expect to see motorcycles in traffic at any time, not just in the spring and summer. Drivers involved in collisions often report not seeing the motorcycle or seeing it too late to avoid a collision.
LANE SHARING: Traffic conditions and road surfaces will determine the area within the lane that the motorcyclist will use. Oil spills, potholes, gravel or debris may require the motorcyclist to adjust positions within the lane. Although there may be enough room in the traffic lane for an automobile and a motorcyclist, remember that the motorcyclist needs the room to maneuver safely and is entitled to the entire lane. Do not share the lane.
PASSING: When your automobile is being passed by a motorcycle, you should maintain your lane position and speed. Allow the motorcycle to complete the maneuver and assume proper lane position as quickly as possible.
FOLLOWING DISTANCE: Allow at least three to four seconds following distance when behind a motorcycle so the motorcyclist has enough time to maneuver in an emergency. In dry conditions motorcycles can stop more quickly than a car. Dim headlights when following all vehicles, including motorcycles.
STOPPING DISTANCE: Motorcycles can stop in a shorter distance than a car. A motorcyclist's ability to stop quickly may also depend on the rider's experience and training.
ROAD CONDITIONS: Motorcycles react differently to traffic, weather and road conditions than cars. Thus, riders often respond in ways drivers do not expect. Weather presents hazards by changing the conditions of a road. Wet or icy roads impair a motorcyclist's ability to brake and maneuver. Wind gusts, both natural and those created by large passing vehicles, can move a motorcycle across an entire lane if the rider is not prepared. Road conditions, such as potholes or railroad tracks, often require motorcyclists to change positions within their lane. Gravel roads decrease traction and may cause a rider to slow down or brake where a car would not.
IN CASE OF A COLLISION: Motorcyclists are only protected by their helmet, eye protection, boots, gloves and durable clothing. In the event of a collision, use extreme caution and seek emergency medical assistance.

Moped Operators

Motorized pedalcycles, often called mopeds, are low-speed, two-wheeled vehicles. They can be pedaled like a bicycle or driven like a motorcycle. Mopeds are intended for limited use on public roadways. Following are some of the laws and responsibilities of moped drivers:

Must have a valid driver's license.
Must obey all signs, signals and traffic laws and most bicycle laws.
A moped may not go over 30 mph.
Moped drivers may carry a passenger only when the moped is made for two people. Equipment must include a passenger seat and a passenger footrest.
If a moped is driven at night, it must have a headlight visible from at least 500 feet. A moped also must have a red reflector on the rear visible from at least 100 to 600 feet.

Snowmobiles

During the winter, drivers may share the roadway with snowmobiles. Use care when driving in areas with snowmobile warning signs. For information on snowmobile registration and operating requirements, contact the Illinois Department of Natural Resources toll free at 800-382-1696 or 217-557-0180.

Slow-Moving Vehicles

Certain slow-moving farm vehicles, construction equipment and vehicles drawn by animals may share our roadways. Use caution and prepare to slow down when approaching and passing slow-moving vehicles from the rear.

CLOSING SPEEDS: Normal speeds for slow-moving vehicles may range from 5 to 20 mph. When a vehicle traveling at normal highway speed approaches a slow-moving vehicle from the rear, the speed deferential will dramatically shorten the time it takes to reach the slow-moving vehicle.
TURNS & PASSING: Slow-moving vehicles may make wide turns and may turn right or left at any time into unmarked entrances. When approaching from the rear, stay a safe distance behind the vehicle until it is safe to pass, then be certain the driver has seen you and is aware of your intent to pass before you begin.
EMBLEM: An orange slow-moving vehicle emblem must be on the rear of the vehicle.
REAR LIGHT: When lights are required, a flashing amber signal must be mounted as high as possible on the rear of the vehicle. It must be visible for 500 feet in sunlight. Other devices to identify slow-moving vehicles may include reflectors, rotating or oscillating amber lights.
LANE USAGE: Slower traffic must drive in the right-hand lane. The left lane is for passing and turning. Slow-moving vehicles may be wider than the lane width. It may be necessary for these wide vehicles to temporarily move into an adjoining lane to avoid roadside obstructions.

Horseback Riders

Horseback riders may use public roadways. Exceptions are limited access highways and most expressways. Horseback riders must ride with traffic and as far to the right as possible. Never sound a horn when you are near a horse. The sound may frighten it and cause an accident. When meeting or passing a horseback rider, do so with caution and be prepared to stop.

Children

Children often forget the dangers of playing near traffic. Some are not old enough to realize the risks of playing in or crossing the streets. Drivers and parents must use care to ensure the safety of children.

OBSERVE SIGNS: Drivers should watch for signs that mark special hazard areas such as school zones, bus stops, playgrounds, parks and schools.
BE WATCHFUL AND READY TO REDUCE SPEED: Drivers should be extra careful in residential areas, school areas and places where children are most likely to be.
BE CAREFUL BACKING UP: Drivers should be extremely watchful when backing in or out of a driveway when children are near.
TEACH CHILDREN: Parents should teach children the rights and responsibilities of pedestrians at an early age.
ASSIGN PLAY AREAS: Parents should assign special play areas for children. Make sure children do not play in or near streets, driveways or other dangerous areas.

Trucks

When sharing the road with trucks, buses or other large vehicles, there are some special tips that are important to remember.

When following a large vehicle, stay out of its "blind spots". Position your vehicle so the driver can see it in the side mirrors.
Pay close attention to turn signals, and give large vehicles plenty of room to maneuver and make turns. Large vehicles make wide right turns and sometimes leave an open space to the right just before the turn.
Size and weight affect a vehicle’s ability to maneuver and stop. Always allow extra space for large vehicles.
When following a truck at night, always dim your headlights. Bright lights will blind the driver of the large vehicle when they reflect off of the large side mirrors.
When passing a truck, let the driver know you are passing by blinking your headlights, especially at night. The driver will make it easier for you by staying to the far side of the lane. Complete your pass as quickly as possible, and don’t stay along side the vehicle.

WHEN SHARING THE ROAD WITH TRUCKS
AVOID THESE FOUR BLIND SPOTS:
	Don't return to the driving lane until you can see the entire front of the truck in your rear view mirror. If you can't see one of the truck driver's side mirrors, he or she can't see you. If you can't see the truck driver in his or her side mirror, he or she can't see you. Don't enter the area between the curb or shoulder and the truck if the truck is signaling a turn.

Source: http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com